One of my favorite woodworking projects is a butcher block end-grain cutting board. Im not sure if its the “back to basics” simplicity or just the fact that it is one of the most useful projects a woodworker can make, but something keeps bringing me back for more. A custom cutting board makes a great gift and many woodworkers make them in batches every Holiday Season. And if you are relatively new to woodworking, this is a great project to hone your milling, glue-up and tablesaw skills. I’ll cover the preparation and construction of the board itself, as well as the various finishing options available. I’ll also discuss how to maintain the board and keep it looking fresh for years to come!
Update (9/25/10)
I never thought when I made this video that so many folks would find the plan useful and make their own. I think its safe to say this is the video that launched a thousand cutting boards! So you may already be very familiar with this design. But what you may not know is the fact that this design came about almost by accident. Once of my first cutting boards was a very large board made of purpleheart and birch (left). It turned out to be far too large for our kitchen. Nicole asked that I cut it down. So instead of just cutting trimming the length and width and calling it a day, I decided to have some fun with it. I sliced it into pieces, flipped the pieces 90 degrees, alternated their direction and glued them back together. The end result is the cutting board you see in this video. Quite a transformation! And I am so glad that so many of you were inspired to make your own, and even make some amazing variations on the concept.
Nice podcast. Too bad they aren’t a bit longer.
Speaking of planes, I’d like to see a future show on planes: sharpening and using them to create flat surfaces on something large like a tabletop.
Did anybody but me notice that at the end of Marc’s latest show (A Cut Above, Part I) that TheWoodWhisperer.com was misspelled as TheWoodWhsiperer.com and the same mistake was on the e-mail address. Now, if I know Marc, he will blame this on the Missus. I enjoyed the show anyway!
Well, that was actually a test to see who was paying attention. You guys win!! :)
Marc
I subscribe to your podcast through iTunes and enjoy them. But …
The cut you made today on the glued up layers of the cutting board is very dangerous. In every table saw book of safety procedures the tell you never to do this.
‘Never cut cross grain against the fence.’ (Try that on Google and see how many hits you get.)
Having said that, I done it a number of times. I always realize that it is not a safe cut and I brace myself and use a good push stick. The push stick you were using could only be described as ‘weenie’.
I’ve placed a crude picture here. ( http://www.americankestrel.com.....hstick.jpg ) I make a couple of these a year and usually embed a magnet in the side to that it is easily attached to the table saw. It is usually made out of plywood and I’ve seen guys that make the sacrificial notch so that it is replaceable.
I can cut one out on the bandsaw in under a minute so I don’t go to that kind of trouble. Drilling and placing the magnet takes a little longer.
Like you and ‘Norm’ I don’t use a blade guard although if I was making a video I would that was because it is easier for the camera to see the cut. I have a splitter on one table saw and think it is a good idea for ‘rough’ or green wood.
Thanks for the show.
Hey Richard. I am flattered by your concern for my safety. ;)
I will address a few of your points though. The general rule about cross-cutting end-grain against the fence stems primarily from the fact that most lumber is much longer than it is wide. So cross-cutting a 6″ wide board that is 36″ long is very dangerous against the fence. In general, you never want to cross-cut anything that is longer than it is wide. But when your end-grain surface is sufficiently wide enough to support the piece through the entire cut,
Great video again.
Always entertaining. Keep them coming as there are plenty of us that need to see something to know what is going on.
Marc,
Great episode. I noticed you didn’t mention poly as a choice for the finish. I assume this is because it is completely unsuited for the purpose.
Nice plug for Matt’s Basement Workshop – I have really enjoyed Matt’s content over the past year.
Thanks again for all the effort you put into this – they really are fun to watch.
Marc,
I enjoyed this episode. Keep up your positive attitude – it makes a difference.
And thanks for the nice words about Matt’s BW and our LumberJocks.com
I just found this podcast from some woodworking forum and went through all the episodes in a few days. Great fun to watch and I really like the cutting boards.
Just want to second the “pro-others” approach to your stuff here, Marc. Mention of Matt’s podcast actually turned me on to a resource I’d not yet taken the time to look for, and now am the better for. I’m really starting to digg (hint, hint, everyone) your style and just want to thank you again.
-kiff
DIGG. haha I get it! :)
I guess one of these days I should mention Digg and Podcast Alley. Couldn’t hurt right?
Hey Paul,
I’m assuming that you treat both sides of the board as well as the edges. Any specific advice on how to do that?
~CZ
Who’s Paul?
Hi Marc,
I also want to know like CZ if you finish both sides, and also, I don’t have the Salad Bowl varnish. Can you use mineral oil now, and in a month or so refinish with Salad Bowl Varnish?
Love your site, humor, tips, and I’ll have to find out about digging…
Cheers
Hey guys. I do indeed treat all surfaces of the board. I didn’t necessarily show that in the video due to time considerations. But all surfaces are treated exactly the same with the same number of varnish coats.
You can use mineral oil first. Just make sure the finish has plenty of time to cure before applying the varnish. And before applying the new finish, I would give the whole board a nice wipe-down with lacquer thinner or denatured alcohol to remove any surface oil. Once it flashes off, you can apply your salad bowl varnish.
Good luck!
Marc
Marc,
Wow! Love the site and I am working my way through all of the podcasts while my six week old son is napping…
A couple of quick questions regarding this cutting board episode:
1.) I noticed that you cut the board on the table saw with the fence up against the slice you were taking out. I don’t own a table saw yet, but I thought that was a no-no. I also noticed that you had a wood block running the length of your fence. What for?
2.) You answered someone question about recoating all sides of the board, but I was wondering if you had to wait for the top side to cure/dry befor flipping it over to apply the finish to the underside? Or is there a trick that lets you save a few days…
I can’t tell you how great I think your podcasts are! Keep up the great work!
~Peter
Hey Peter. Well first off, congrats on the mini-woodworker! Getting any sleep lately? :)
1- I agree that that type of cut is not ideal. But in cases where you need a consistent sized cut, it just makes more sense to do it that way. And with some experience and the right push sticks, that cut is relatively safe. I would not recommend doing that as your first cut on a tablesaw, but once you are comfortable with the machine, you should be in good shape to try it. Just be sure to use a good push stick.
2- You would need to let the board dry before coating the other side. That is, unless you come up with a system that lets the board breathe while it dries. One way to do this is to take a piece of scrap ply and put a few nails into it. Then you can coat the whole board and lay it with the bottom resting on the nail heads. The nail heads might put a slight blemish in the finished surface, but its nothing that a light sanding wont take care of. And if you use a little finish nail. you shouldnt see anything at all.
Hope that helps Peter. Good luck with your woodworking!!
Marc,
Back on 2/12/07 you said “2- You would need to let the board dry before coating the other side. That is, unless you come up with a system that lets the board breathe while it dries. One way to do this is to take a piece of scrap ply and put a few nails into it. Then you can coat the whole board and lay it with the bottom resting on the nail heads. The nail heads might put a slight blemish in the finished surface, but its nothing that a light sanding wont take care of. And if you use a little finish nail. you shouldn’t see anything at all.”
Would using micro-nail work instead of finishing nails or would they cause scratches?
It might scratch if the piece moves and depending on the wood, it might even create a dent. Ultimately, if you do this technique and you always place the bottom of the piece on the nails, you don’t have to worry about it since you’ll never see any blemishes that develop. Its not really a great technique for a show surface unfortunately.
Marc:
By vocation I am a consultant in Regulatory Toxicology and by avocation a serious woodworker. Your comments about the toxicity of various finishes were right on the money and I wont get into an elaborate discussion here except to say “the dose makes the poison” and when using non-approved (FDA) finishes that holds true. I would have no issue personally using food contact items that have been finished with any type of polymerizing (or cured) finish. However, any woodworker who either gifts, donates or sells these products should consider the potential legal ramifications of using a non-approved finish. For this reason I would strongly encourage that these products be finished with FDA complient products such as mineral oil, Salad Bowl Finish or other natural oils.
Marc,
I found a huge piece of purpleheart at woodcraft in Loveland CO. for less per board foot than oak…. in other words my cheap ass bought it. I decided to make one of your cutting boards since I have a huge stockpile of maple at the house….
So you perform a sneaky little trick in your podcast :) You changed from one glue up pattern to another after you make your 1 1/4 cross cuts, no big deal I just could not figure out what was differetn beteween mine and yours. I will make the next one with the 3/4 cuts inside…
Thanks for the project… I have made several cutting boards in the past but I really like the contrast between the purpleheart and the maple….
Keep up the good work and I hope to see you on TV soon…
John
My wife and I love your Cutting Board Vid, especially the “….cuttinnnnnnnnng boarrrrrrd” part. The phrase is repeated many times a week around our house.
Thanks for the awsome episode and keep up that sense of humor.
KB
Dear Marc,
I am from Bangladesh. Can you give me the basic formulation of Salad Bawl Finish. Can you tell me is mustard ( brown) oil FDA complient for wooden utensils like cutlary, serving plates etc?
Thanks
Hi Tutu. Most salad bowl finish in the US is just varnish. As for mustard oil, I never even heard of it. From what I can see though it seems to be a kitchen oil. Most oils like canola oil, vegetable oil, and oilive oil will go rancid on a cutting board. So please, do your research on mustard oil before applying it to the board.
Marc, I just ordered the wood so I can get cracking on a couple of these cutting boards. I’ve only just bought a table saw so I think that this will be a great second project (the first was a birdhouse. :-) )
Thanks for putting this podcast together. I’ve watched this particular episode many times dreaming about the day I’ll FINALLY get the stuff together to give it a try.
Jonathan
Hey Marc,
I really enjoy your podcasts–they’re lots of fun to watch. Regarding the cutting boards, it’s important to get the first lamination dead level. I don’t have a drum sander, and when I flip the 1 1/4″ strips over on their side and swap ends on every other strip, things get a little gappy. I could throw a cat through some of those gaps. All I know to do is to go back to the table saw and shave each side of the strips. Then, when I line up the strips, they’re gap-free, and we’re good to go on the last glue-up. Love the podcasts–keep “em coming!
I’ve tried to level the surface of the first glue-up by sanding it with 80 grit on my random orbit sander and my belt sander. Bad idea. It looks good, but when I cut the board into 1 1/4″ strips and alternate them for the second glue up, things tend to get a little gappy between the strips. to the point that I could throw a cat through some of the gaps. So I go back to the table saw and shave the strips on bothe sides to achieve a perfect fit. After I do this, everything lines up dead on. I suppose I could avoid all of this by using my planer, but it seems awfully abusive to the machine and makes a heck of a racket. It scorches the wood too
Love the Podcasts–they’re lots of fun. Keep “em coming!
Thanks Marc. I love the design and simplicity. I instantly knew this would be a great holiday gift. I made two, cause initially, I was supposed to make one for my M-i-L, but I let the LOML see it and she took ownership of the first one. So, I made two. My wife said quote “Mom will wet her pants when she she sees this.” Apparently, the other two gifts for the other fair-gendered family members are going to freak when they see it and they don’t get one yet.
It’s all part of the master plan. They are getting one next year.
BTW, I am going to need you to come up with another fantastic holiday gift within the next few months please.
Troy
Marc — A friend of mine tells me that he thinks plastic cutting boards are less likely to harbor microbes than wood. I’ve read dozens of articles that address this issue but have found nothing definitive. I KNOW that you have an opinion about this… and I think I can guess what you will say. Anyone who is concerned about milk carton safety definitely has an opinion on cutting boards. A reply from a microbiologist will definitely help settle the argument. Thanks!
Well Steve. If you do a little digging you will find numerous articles with conflicting claims. Some say plastic is more sanitary and some say wood is. The claim for wood is that it has a natural anti-microbial properties not found in plastic.
So what do I believe? I believe that bacteria will grow on anything that is not kept clean or properly cared for. I sanitize my boards with a little white vinegar and some folks like to rub salt on the surface. And I never cut meat on my boards. I know it sounds crazy, but I reserve my fine boards for vegetables only. The meat is cut on plastic. And the primary reason is because I can spray that sucker with bleach and throw it in the dishwasher if I want to. Thats the safest bet as far as Im concerned.
Unfortunately I have never done any testing and Im not sure what to believe from the conflicting studies I’ve read. So the best bet is to have safe practices and good habits.
I am sorry Marc, there is just something NOT right about the Wood Whisperer cutting anything on plastic. I can understand keeping one a really nice board from being damaged by heavy use in order to keep it looking new, but can’t you find an old (wood) end grain board to cut on? I have read enough on the plastic v. wood debate to conclude, Wood Wins. Wood always wins. I am sure you can figure out a way to clean a wood board after cutting meat. Don’t you think so WW?
Kent Follmer
Champaign IL
I apologize Marc for my previous post above. After reading it again, I see now it may have been inappropriate. I enjoyed watching you throw the plastic board over your shoulder in your video and I was surprised to hear that you use one for meat.
Here is an article written by an unbiased Phd that did an in deptch study on the subject.
http://www.alladd.com/cutting_board_study.htm
This article concludes as follows:
In addition to our laboratory research on this subject, we learned after arriving in California in June of 1995 that a case-control study of sporadic salmonellosis had been done in this region and included cutting boards among many risk factors assessed (Kass, P.H., et al., Disease determinants of sporadic salmonellosis in four northern California counties: a case control study of older children and adults. Ann. Epidemiol. 2:683-696, 1992.). The project had been conducted before our work began. It revealed that those using wooden cutting boards in their home kitchens were less than half as likely as average to contract salmonellosis (odds ratio 0.42, 95% confidence interval 0.22-0.81), those using synthetic (plastic or glass) cutting boards were about twice as likely as average to contract salmonellosis (O.R. 1.99, C.I. 1.03-3.85); and the effect of cleaning the board regularly after preparing meat on it was not statistically significant (O.R. 1.20, C.I. 0.54-2.68). We know of no similar research that has been done anywhere, so we regard it as the best epidemiological evidence available to date that wooden cutting boards are not a hazard to human health, but plastic cutting boards may be
a knowledgable work worker recently wrote in a post:
After the legislators declared wood cutting boards unsafe, and required all commercial joints to switch to plastic cutting boards, a University did a study of bacteria on used cutting boards. The found the plastic boards were very unsafe… that the tiny scratches left by the knives were a great incubator for bacteria. The old fashioned wood cutting boards were practically germ free. When I read the study they had not (yet) proved their theory that the moist wood expanded to squeeze the moisture out of the scratches, then dried, killing the bacteria. Whatever the mechanism, the wooden boards were safe, and the plastic boards not only dulled the knives (making them dangerous) but they contaminated the food.
I no longer use my plastic cutting board. I enjoy my wood prep counter and my wooden cutting boards (occasionally treated with mineral oil, or previously with vegetable oil).
Great videos … I was just given an unfinished cutting board as a gift and was wondering the best way to finish it … Now I know!
BTW, a great little extra for this board would be a groove about a 1/4″ inside from the top edge to collect the juices from a juicy roast.
Thanks again and keep up the great work.
Marc,
The layout of the strips in your initial glue up does not
jibe with the results shown during the second glue up.
I had to go back and look carefully at what was really
going on, you sly devil.
Cheers,
Martin
Yea I actually made several variations of the board that week just for the heck of it. Good thing the board looks ok either way. ;)
Very nice. I am still in the middle of the job, bit it is looking really good.
Have you designed any small trash boxes for the kitchen?
I’m new to wood working and having a blast!
~Shane
I have tried to make your end grain cutting board but I do not have a table saw, and cutting the boards by hand has proved to be tricky. I instead made some I guess you would say long grain cutting boards, but I have a hard time getting them level…as I do not have a planner what would you suggest I do. Thanks for the time.
Hey Cliff. To flatten a big board like that, either use a bench plane, or you can try the router sled method. The concept is depicted here: http://www.woodworking.org/Inf.....php?t=8904
And all you need is a router and some wood to do it.
Marc:
You refer to a router sled, above, to use to flatten a board. A sled will not do the job adequately, instead, use a pair of skis or a pivot frame. You could use a saddle but that is a lot of work when a pair of skis can do the job better and faster.
If the finger cut out is only 1/2″ deep, how do you get the 1/8″ roundover bit in without hitting on the bearing bolt of the bit?
Hey Shane. I imagine it varies from manufacturer to manufacturer, but I was able to just barely get the bit in there. If you know you want to ease the edge with the 1/8″ bit, its probably best to measure the bit first to make sure you have enough clearance. Or just round over by hand. Its not much area so it would only take a few min. with some sandpaper.
Disaster!
I am building 5 of these at a time for christmas.
They look awesome but it got cold here last night and they warped before I could finish them.
I ran one of them through my planer very gently and it helped but I am afraid of tearing them up.
Help.
Can I wet the board to straighten it?
Hey Shane. Check this post out: http://www.thewoodwhisperer.co.....-the-week/
Hi Marc,
Great information on building a cutting board and finishing it.
I’ve made a small endgrain board that I’m looking to use as a cheese server. Made out of pine with very good patterns. Previously I’ve simply oiled my cutting boards as you describe. I’d like to use the varnish finish but I’m not sure if it will bring out the grain like the oil finish does.
I’ve also considered just giving it a light oiling and then varnishing it.
Can you please suggest the best way to go?
Thanks,
tony
Hey Tony. A few things. In general, most people report that the varnish does a better job of bringing out the beauty of the wood than the oil alone. The oil has a tendency to make the surface look a little dull and lifeless. I am assuming we are talking about mineral oil here. Now I would NOT recommend coating with mineral oil, followed by varnish. Remember that mineral oil never cures. So if you topcoat with varnish, the varnish will have problems curing. So either go oil, or go varnish, but don’t combine them.
And jut to reiterate, this method is intended for endgrain boards. So if your boards are long grain, you might just want to stick with the oil.
Hope that helps. Feel free to email me if you need further clarification.
Hi Marc,
Thanks for the quick response.
Yes, I’m talking endgrain boards. From your advice I’ll just varnish this small one and see how it looks.
I have another (larger) board I did earlier (my first attempt) which I’ve already oiled. I had considered varnishing it for additional protection, but from your comments sounds like I should just leave it oiled, or may be add a coat of beeswax.
cheers,
tony
Hi Marc,
One other thing. Am I correct in assuming you use Satin rather than Gloss varnish? My thinking is that a Satin finish normally hides knife marks better than a Gloss finish.
thanks,
tony
Actually, I only use gloss on my boards. I guess in my head I am trying to get the “purest” finish possible on there. And since you aren’t building a film, there really shouldn’t be a visible difference between satin and gloss.
Hi Marc,
Im kind of new to wooodworking … i had been wanting to try making a cutting board and stumbled over here and love your site. Just have a finishing question (yes, yet another lol! … and no i wont repeat anything asked before). I have read in several places that tung oil in its pure form is non-toxic. When applied properly (several coats) it binds with wood and makes the surface completely waterproof. Is this true ?
I must admit that I have never applied enough tung oil to a piece to determine just how water-proof the finish can be. But, I have read the same thing many times. So I would say its certainly worth a shot. The fact that tung oil actually dries, gives it a few bonus points over mineral oil. And as long as the material truly is labeled PURE tung oil, you should be ok. In fact, I think I may try this on a future cutting board.
Ill probably end up trying tung oil too on the cutting board too. Just a note on my past experiences with 100% tung oil. I tried the old masters after reading some review about it … the finish looked great but it had some voc associated with it, which it shouldnt if it was pure. I tried woodcraft tung oil it seems like its just pure oil. You still need to thin it to apply it well but, atleast you know what you are putting in it.
Hello, I just found your site. I am new to woodworking within the past year, and have decided that since I do not have access to a lot of formal instruction, I will concentrate mostly on hand tools.
I just wanted to say that I have watched a lot of online videos over the past 6 months and yours is one of the most well done and informative that I have seen. I realize it is a simple project, but for a beginner it was quite clear. It was also great that you pointed out that hand sanding would work for the breadboard. and to top it all off, unlike a lot of other videos that give instructions using material that is impossible to locate, you link to a source for materials. Perfect! Thanks for the great video. I have seen these cutting boards on sale for over $100. After I make one for my wife, who knows maybe I can sell a few. Thanks again!!
Hi. I just stumbled across part 1 of your Cutting Board project, a few days ago. Then I decided to check out your site. WOW!!!
I just wanted to say THANKS!! As a newbee, it’s great to have a resource like this available. It seems that woodworking is an art that’s generally handed down or pretty much learned by others. It’s hard for a new-comer to figure out the best techniques or even how to use certain tools. And as woodworking is not an inexpensive hobby, it’s hard to know what tools to invest in first, (I still don’t know what kind of table or miter saw to buy) and the salesmen will tell/sell you ANYTHING. I’m sure that this site will provide me with lots of ideas and info.
I’m also really impressed by the video. Not only is it a great project, the instructions seem really easy to follow. I’m sure mine will turn out great. That is, once I buy some tools. Oh… and once I find the second part. :-)
Keep up the good work!
Marc,
I finially got around to making the cutting board and the instuctions were perfect. However, you need to really punch on the thickest after the first cutting. I watch the video three times to find out that the glued board should be 1 5/8″. Other then that, I haven’t had a problem yet. The finial glue up is drying now. I’ll tell you more after I finish it up.
Thanks, I really have learned a lot with your help…
John Hammett
Baker City, OR.
Hello Marc,
Your podcasts are thoroughly entertaining and informative. I was wondering if you have useful tips for creating a marquetry type inlay in tabletops etc. I am making a series of pieces for my each of my siblings and parents, and wish to inlay the a signature design…something to remember me by. I have a rather nasty blood cancer that carries with it a rather daunting survival curve, so I’d like to get started soon.
I’m no stranger to the shop, but have never tried my hand at inlay before. The intro to your podcast features what looks like a small table with a leaf and stem design, it is a simpler version of this type of inlay I’d like to try.
Love your work, keep it up!
mh
I can’t wait to try my hand at crafting one of these puppies! This looks like a project even a cave man could do.
I’m a professional cello player by trade. So I’m partial to hand tools for a couple of reasons: 1. They were good enough for Stradivari; and 2. I’m more likely to keep all my fingers.
Which brings me to my question. What’s the “hand tool” of the 17th/18th centuries that I would need in lieu of a table saw? A hand saw doesn’t seem like it would cut it, so to speak. Or would it, with enough practice?
A hand saw would indeed be the tool of choice. Makes ya really respect what our forefathers were able to accomplish doesn’t it?
Marc. Not that I doubt the master. But we’re brainstorming here, right? Jerry’s reference above to cats and gaps continues to cause me pause… What about a hand miter saw? I confess I don’t have a clue what it does, but from the looks of it, a straight, accurate cut seems more likely than “freehanding” with a hand saw. Is the cutting board too big for it? If so, do you suppose one could jury-rig a suitable facsimile? Failing all that, can a body rent time on a table saw somewehere? :-)
A miter box would certainly give you a more controlled cut. But it is really intended for cross-cuts. For this project, you will still need to do a lot of ripping, which would exceed the capacity of any miter box. I would imagine to do this all with hand tools, you are going to need to do your best to cut to a line, then clean everything up with some hand planes.
And the easiest answer is to make a few friends. Never hurts to have a buddy with a tablesaw! lol
Marc,
Curious if you wipe off the excess finish after each coat. That is, you put it on for 3-4 minutes, then wait a minute or two, then wipe down the board. It seems like you simply apply the finish and let it dry, but that would also seem to build up a film.
Great website!
Scott
hey Marc im just starting out playing with wood and since i cant find any part time schools for this im going to try to learn everything off of your shows. im going to start with those awesome end grain cutting boards and ill do a couple of them to get a good hang of it, then ill give them out to friends. but i need a little advice. what other type of wood combination can i use on a cutting board? id like to be diverse and creative with the colors and patterns. so if you have any suggestions also on different cutting patterns that would be cool too. i was thinking of using walnut, and cherry wood just off the top of my head, but i dont know if theyr are tight grain and hard. thanks so much Marc appreciate all your hard work im learning so much.
-wil
Hey William. I am glad to hear you are getting into woodworking. Its pretty addictive so watch out. :) And be sure to take advantage of all the great resources we have available to us on the web. My site offers just one perspective, and there are many approaches to the craft.
Now on to your question. When it comes to cutting board, most times its better to play it safe. While I’ve seen lots of different woods used in cutting boards (including exotics), I usually try to keep it as simple as possible. I’ve been using purpleheart for a while now and feel its just as safe as maple. But many other exotics have a good amount of natural oil in them. Personally, I am concerned about what else might be in that oil. So if the wood is oily I don’t use it. Now it is also a good idea to avoid open pored woods like oak, ash and possibly even walnut. But I have seen hundreds of boards using walnut……
Bottom line is its a gray area. There isn’t a whole lot of info out there so that’s why I like to play it safe. If you are looking to try a colorful wood, do a bunch of research to determine if there is some allergy or toxicity concern. And of course it best to just avoid the odd ball exotics. And as tempting as it is to use this system to make fancy colorful patterns, it might not make the best material for a surface that will be in contact with food.
Hey there Whisperer,
I found this website by googling for directions on building an end grain cutting board. I’ve never worked with wood other than framing decks and houses, but this project looks fun and easy enough to take on. Thanks for the video, I know they take a lot more work than people realize. Great job.
Great Video! I need to get the podcast for that also.
I have the same push stick and really like it. ;-)
Two questions… You have a link to Bell Forest Products for the material, which is great. Are there other domestic wood that you would recommend? I know Oak is out, but could Cherry or Walnut work? The other question is the cutting board itself. If I made one exactly like it or similar, and sold a few (you know… to make money for more tools), will I get in trouble with you or your lawyers?
Thank you for sharing your talents!
Tom
Hey Tommy_Joe. I have seen boards made of just about every wood you can imagine. Cherry, walnut, and even oak are common. If I could do the video over again, I would make a quick clarification. The open grain of woods like oak is something that really only presents itself in the face grain. All those little ridges and valleys can harbor bacteria. But on the end grain, well, its end grain. End grain is always porous no matter what species you use. And if you do the varnish sealing method I recommend, a wood like Oak should actually do rather well as a cutting board. But its going to be thirsty so be prepare to give it a good amount of varnish. And woods like cherry and walnut should be ok too. Although some folks avoid walnut because of allergy concerns. Not sure there is any solid proof that this should be a concern though.
As for using the design, go for it. If you get rich and make millions, then we’ll talk. ;)
Thank you for your response! I do have oad scraps in the the shop from other projects, so I can give that a try.
I have subscribed to your newsletter and podcast info. Making millions would be nice (and we’ll certainly talk then), but I’d settle for having my shop support itself and my small family in a small way. You’re doing what I would like to do, so I’m a bit jealous. (You are in good company with Kevin O’Conner and Norm Abram. :-) ) Keep up the great work!
Thanks again.
Tom
Marc:
Me again. I’m the guy committed to hand tools.
I just took delivery of some gorgeous wood from Bell Forest. The only problem is, it’s milled to 1-3/4″, not 1-5/8″. I’m not complaining, but I’m also not inclined to try to chisel, scrape or sand that last 1/8 inch off. Plus there’s a good 21 inches of length.
Waste not, want not. Bigger the better. But being new at this, I don’t want to screw things up blithely changing measurements, especially since I’m not particularly adroit at thinking in three dimensions.
Can I use the full height and length, and just cut fifteen 1-1/4″ strips (instead of 11) when the time comes, all other things being equal?
You can, but you will change the final dimensions of the board, making the long dimension even longer. Using thicker material will make all the little squares wider. And using longer strips means you’ll have more rows, again contributing to the board being longer. At some point the board’s proportions are going to start looking odd. So its completely up to you how far to go with it. But the short answer is you can definitely do it.
If I were in your situation, I would probably be ok with the extra 1/8″ thickness. That would translate to a board that’s 1 3/8″ longer than what’s called for in the plan. Not too bad. Now add a couple extra rows and the board is going to get really long. A little too long for my tastes.
Hope that helps.
Hey Mark,
Some folks suggest that wood grain orientation should be the same on large butcher blocks or end-grain counter tops to prevent cracks from developing. For a 12″ X 15″ end-grain board (walnut & maple), is it still necessary to orient the grain the same direction, or will a good glue job hold the pieces tight even if the grain isn’t oriented the same? I will be using a diluted salad bowl finish.
Thanks!
Well, there are no absolutes here. All I can say is that the smaller the board, the less you need to be concerned about grain orientation. Larger butcher blocks it can be a much bigger issue. For these boards, I usually don’t worry about it and fortunately I haven’t had any issues. Nor have I heard of anyone reporting cracking or splits. But if you can orient the grain uniformly without much trouble, then you should try to. And if you want to go any larger than this board, you should really consider it. Good luck!
Hey Marc,
I just made one of your endgrain cutting boards out of hard maple. I was going to make a few more.
Is it important to align the endgrain for expansion/contraction?
I didn’t do it on the first one and wonder if that increases the odds of cracking.
Thanks for the podcasts!
shawn
Hey Shawn. See above.
Hi Marc,
Was wondering when you thin the salad bowl finish with mineral spirits…(this may sound stupid) but are you talking the kind you pick up at the local building center? Great site!
You got it. Just regular old mineral spirits.
Marc,
I am new to wood working and must say that I enjoy your website. I DID in fact make the cutting board, but the question I have is the finish. I have applied 4 or 5 coats of mineral oil and have wiped it all down. I was so proud of the cutting board, it actually looked like the one you made in your pod cast. In fact, once I put the cutting board in the kitchen, my wife wasted no time in putting it to use, I about had a heart attack…I didn’t want her to use it… just look at it in all its beauty. I got over it quick as she sliced through the tomatoes…anyway, after she hand washed the board and let it dry, the surface was rough. I sanded the board up to 320 grit ( smooth like glass) when I made it. Did the water when she washed it raise the end grain? I would think thats normal but was not prepared for the feel of the board after.
Thank You
Patrick Melchior
The first cut is always the worst one Patrick! lol. But an unused board never reaches its true potential. I am glad to hear she wasn’t afraid to dive right in and start cutting!
In general, the board will go through a lot of surface changes in the first few months. As the board goes from wet to dry to wet to dry…….the grain gets raised and the glue lines become more evident. So usually I wait about 6 months, then I take it back into the shop for a light sanding and refinish. This 6-month wear-in period almost has the same affect as pre-raising the grain before finishing. So that once you clean up this second time, it will stay smoother and the glue lines will be less likely to show up. Now the fact that you are using mineral oil does muddy things up a bit, literally. When you take it back to the shop, you’ll find that your sandpaper gums up pretty quickly. Just do the best you can to sand the surface smooth up to 320. And you don’t necessarily need to get down to bare wood.
Now since mineral oil still does allow moisture to absorb into the board, you will be more likely to have the roughness return than if you used the varnishing method. But as hard as it is to remind yourself, it is just a cutting surface so a little roughness is to be expected.
I also would try to avoid adding mineral oil a month or so before bringing it back in the shop. You want the board as “dry” as possible.
Hope that helps.
Thanks for the info Marc. no that the soap box is open I would (wood) lol, like to give you some feedback. I, as well as all the wood workers who follow your website appreciate the fact that you are independent in your opinions, and not a shirt and tie guy, a corporate man. I feel we relate better to you and your opinions. I hope you remain true to your core foundations that got you to where you are today. I understand that you have to make a living, ROCK on!!
keep up the great work… you and your wife are both hard workers and your funny
thanks again
patrick melchior
Just wanted to say that I really enjoy your site and hope you are doing well with it as a business and hobby, I am very jealous, what better job could you have.
Anyway I just had a possible design change for the cutting board, which I plan to try this holiday season when I make some cutting boards with some local Tucson mesquite. I think it would be more advantageous to use a cove profile router bit to make a rounded groove, maybe 6″ long, centered in the ends of the board as a place for fingers to pick it up. I just didn’t like that if you wanted to use the other side of the board, there was real estate lost to the finger holds. Just a thought, I know it will be a tricky setup to cut but I’ll give it a try.
Thanks for all of the knowledge and experience you share, I look forward to new videos, they are are great and getting better. Keep up the good work.
Thanks.
Cory
what is that adapter you use to attach that router to you dust collection? Is it just a hose with hose clamps on it or something? I need to get an adapter to reduce my 2 1/2 hose down to 1 1/4. Anyone got any ideas? i cant find an adapter.
thanks
Yeah that was actually just a hose coupling off the shelf from Home Depot. If I remember correctly it came with the clamps attached and was in the irrigation area.
Marc,
I am batching out a bunch of these and variations of them for Christmas presents for different family members. Have you ever heard of a problem with these things as far as wood movement? I don’t want to have to hear everybody complain in a couple of years, although I’m not letting the fear of that stop me from making them now.
While there could be an occasional “disaster board”, I have yet to experience one myself. And given the number of boards i see being made, I think we would all hear about it if they started moving. So just from my observations, the boards are pretty darn stable. Batch away!
I was excited a few months ago to find a wood working site with projects to help a new woodworker, but that still produce a beautiful piece. I just finished my first cutting board and it turned out beautifully. I have two more planned for Christmas presents. My brother, a carpenter, couldn’t figure out the pattern, and had never seen the end grain used that way. He’s experimenting with end grain now too. I admit, as a new woodworker, the board foot specs were confusing, but I converted everyting to linear feet and it worked great. Thanks for a great site!
Hi Marc,
This is my first post, though I’ve been watching your videos for some time and would like offer you immense thanks for your teachings. I’m in the process of building my first end-grain cuttings boards and need to decide on the finish. My problem is I like the low-maintenance of the salad-bowl finish but the look of the mineral oil. Is there any practicality in one flooding of mineral oil, then drying, then one or two coats of salad-bowl varnish? As of now, I have neither of these products so I am unable to experiment. Any advice you can offer is appreciated, and thank you again for your work.
Dan
Thanks Dan! By adding salad bowl finish at all, you are going to change the look of the cutting board. And every application of the salad bowl finish gets you further away from that mineral oil look. And once you’ve treated the board with the varnish, you negate the need for mineral oil.
Now I wouldn’t recommend putting the mineral oil on first, simply because mineral oil never dries or cures. It soaks into the wood and eventually wear off the board. But mineral oiled wood always seems to have an oily feel to it and that’s exactly why I don’t like it. So if you were going to try some sort of “hybrid” approach here, I would recommend doing the reverse. I would give the board 1-2 coats of diluted varnish. Set the board on end each time to let it dry and to capture the varnish inside the grain. After two coats, sand the board down nice and smooth. At this point, the wood will probably still take up a very small amount of liquid, but it will be mostly sealed. At that point, apply a very light coat of mineral oil and see what it looks like. Depending on how sealed the wood is, the oil might simply absorb and give you that mineral oil look, or it could just sit on the surface and remain “wet” until it just wears off. I haven’t tried this so I don’t really know.
Now I do occasionally add mineral oil to my varnished boards if they get all scratched up. The oil makes the scratches a little less visible and extends the time between refinishing. But ultimately, the whole point of using varnish in the board is to avoid maintenance. And applying mineral oil is part of that maintenance that I am trying to avoid. Not sure I’ve helped you here, but that’s my experience so far.
Hey Marc- love the end grain cutting board. Wondering if I could use a palm sander or belt sander instead of the random orbital.
Thanks!
Sure you could. A palm sander might take a long time to get the job done, and the belt sander will take a great deal of control on your part. But…technically….it can be done.
I just finished sanding my third cutting board to give for Christmas presents. I used an orbital sander. It took several hours of sanding but it worked. I started with a 60 grit and could have gone lower. The end grain purpleheart is so hard the wood barely sands. By the time you finally get up to a 320 though the finish is like glass.
hey this video was great, i’ve made 2 of these beautiful cutting boards, using rock maple and other hard woods, the pattern you chose looks really great, send more vids!
Hey Marc,
Love the videos and content. I’m make a few of these boards as gifts. I have one question about the finishing process. Before the final coat of finish you lightly sand with 400 grit paper. When I did this and applied the last coat of finsh the sanding lines were visible as there is no “gain” to hide them, and I tried to sand as lightly as possible and only took a few strokes just enough to make the surface smooth.
Any sanding tricks you can share? Or do you just live with the sanding lines. They really are only obvious when viewed in raking light.
Justin
Well, you could try sanding with 600 grit, so that you make finer scratches. But if your final coat isn’t covering up 400 grit scratches, that tells us you might need to have a bit more varnish in the mix (if there were a piece of furniture). But you want to be careful not to add too much of a film to a cutting board. We aren’t really looking to create a glossy board. And if there is a gloss, it should wear off and become dull rather quickly. So I might even recommend giving the board a few days to cure up, and buffing the surface with 0000 steel wool. That should help give you an even dull scratch pattern.
I have a question about the finish. I followed your instructions using the salad bowl finish and thinning out with Varsol (mineral spirits) but isn’t mineral spirits poison? Aren’t we taking a non-toxic finish and making it toxic by adding poison? I made 6 of these and gave them away as x-mas gifts (we celebrate early) and one comment was the board stinks….which it does. I don’t know whether it’s the salad bowl finish that stinks or the varsol that I used to thin it with. It’s cured for over 72 hrs. Is it safe to use?
Also, when you finish…you thin the first coat but you didn’t mention the other 2 coats…I assumed they were all thinned with mineral spirits….correct ?
Hey Dean. The key is to look at the ingredient list and MSDS for your salad bowl finish. One of the ingredients will be either naptha or mineral spirits. So salad bowl finish is toxic. The important thing to not is that they are non-toxic when cured. So I always give my boards a few weeks to air dry before actually using them. All oil-based finishes will have an odor for quite some time. So after 2-3 weeks, the odor is minimal and I just tell the recipient to give it another week before using it. Then before the first use, give it a good washing in warm soapy water. From that point they are good to go.
As for the dilution, I do continue to use the diluted solution for each coat.
I’m making cutting boards for Christmas presents based on Marc’s video, and I’ve run into a problem. After the second glue up, I send it through my 13″ electric planer to smooth the surface one last time. When I do this, the planer kicks back, resulting in one end of the cutting board getting chewed up pretty badly and even delaminating.
Marc doesn’t show this step in the video, so I’m just wondering what I’m doing wrong. Should I be using a different method for planing the surface after the second glue up?
Oh, and an fyi: The planer works fine after the first glue up… Is it possible that the number of glue joints in the second glue up is causing the kick back?
Thanks in advance for your help! On a deadline (xmas)…
Hey Justin. I never run end-grain through the planer. That’s why you didn’t see me do it in the video. I just sanded it after the second glueup. Check out this post and the subsequent comments: http://www.thewoodwhisperer.co.....-the-week/
Wow, I didn’t realize it was such a safety issue. Thanks for the quick response and the link!
Hey Marc thanks for the great cutting board video especially the board pattern! I want to add my experience/observations to the thickness planing end grain scenario. I have done it without incident but I have taken several precautions which I believe attributes to my success. First I want to say I would not want to recommend a potentially hazardous procedure but then we all use a table saws…don’t we??
Planers were never meant to plane end grain because the planer knives are hitting the wood fibers at a right angle, (kind of like a truck hitting a highway divider). Therefore, to help the knives cut rather than smash, I sharpen my knives before using it on end grain. Secondly,
I glue sacrificial rails (thicker than the board) to the sides of the board which eliminates the board rocking through the planer(slam!)and as a bonus it eliminates snipe on the board section. Thirdly, take ultra light passes once the knives reach the end grain surface. Take 2 or 3 passes at the same height before lowering the cutterhead. And finally (especially if your second glue-up was sloppy), knock down any high end grain edges with a scraper or plane.
Best wishes and be safe!!!
(Thanks for the great videos!)
Everything on this one looks pretty good, and I made a rock maple and hickory board. Sanded it up to 220, completely smooth. Put Watco Butcher block finish thinned with mineral spirits on this today, and some of the maple has a white splotchy-ish color on it. (http://www.flickr.com/photos/talldean/4310138174)
Will a second coat help? Did I not sand enough? Would more sanding at this point help, or just ruin things?
You know, that almost looks like glue stains. Sometimes when you have excess glue, is seeps into the grain and partially seals it. So when you coat with your finish, you see a spot that just doesn’t absorb as much oil and as a result its lighter in color. Hard to tell for sure, but that’s my first guess. But if you sanded the surface thoroughly, its hard to imagine that being the case. Could just be something weird in the wood itself and you could sand forever and never get rid of it. Bottom line is, there shouldn’t be much of a film finish on the board anyway, so it might be best to finish the thing up and get it into use. The spots dont look all that bad to me.
Thanks for the quick reply, hugely appreciated!
Hi Marc
I have made 3 boards of maple and purpleheart and have been very pleased. I have enough sapele for several boards and was wondering if it would be appropriate to use for a cutting board. I would use maple as the other stock? Love your videos! Thanks in advance.
Dane
Hey Dane. I don’t see any major problems with sapele for an end grain board. But just as a disclaimer, I can’t know for sure what the potential is for allergies/toxicity with these exotics. So do as much research as you can and always use exotics at your own risk. But from my vantage point, I think sapele would be fine.
Dumb question.
I’ve made a few of these boards now, thank you much for the video! The latest board I made has a 1″ long glue joint that missed; something was off, and I can see a hair of daylight through the board at that one spot.
Is there any way to fill that? It’s not going to be perfect, but I figured it can’t hurt to try and fix it.
Definitely not a dumb question Dean. If it were my board, I would use epoxy for the fill. But keep in mind that this recommendation comes with a disclaimer. While I personally think epoxy is perfectly safe filling a one inch crack in a cutting board, some may disagree. Ultimately the decision is yours.
Okay, I’ve never worked with epoxy before; any quick suggestions?
Mix a small amount of epoxy, push into crack, let dry for ??, scrape off excess, let dry overnight, sand?
Pretty much Dean. Just use any 5-minute epoxy. Place a couple strips of masking tape on each side of the crack, as close as you can get it. Then use a putty knife to drive the epoxy into the crack. Let it dry, then scrape/sand flush.
Okay, the masking tape is a work of genius, or at least, just saved me from making much more of a mess than this needed to be. Thank you!
Hello MaRC
The cutting board was a great piece of work. My question is about using other types of exotic hard woods to make difference color cutting boares. I know some exotics are toxic, do you know were I can find a listing of which woods are toxic and should not be used for this application.
WSP
White Plains NY
Hey William. This is always going to be a subjective call by each individual. Most times, the toxicity comes when dealing with dust getting into your lungs, eyes, or blood stream. In a cutting board, there is little if any ingestion of the actual wood product. But I am also a little leery about the oils secreted by some of these exotics. So in general, I try to avoid them. Purpleheart doesn’t have much in the way of oil, and seems like a decent wood for a cutting board. But that’s the only exotic I have ever included in my boards. And I don’t make any claims that it is completely harmless. But based on the info I have access to, I don’t feel I have anything to be concerned about when using Purpleheart for a cutting board. Here is a wood toxicity chart that may help you make your decision. http://www.woodworkerssource.com/toxicity_list.php
I feel bad asking so many questions on the simple project, but this has really been a learning experience all around in making a few different boards.
So, I have some butcher block finish from Watco. It explicitly says “do not thin”. Any idea what that means to me?
Hey Dean. Many cans of finish will say that. Its just their way of making sure you don’t add more VOC’s to the mixture. As long as you use the right thinner (paint thinner, mineral spirits, naptha, etc), you can thin all day long.
What’s the “wrong thinner” in this case? I’ve just been using odorless mineral spirits, and those seem to work just fine. Any advantage to any of them? Any less toxic or faster drying?
You are using the right stuff. Ethanol and lacquer thinner, for instance, would be the wrong stuff. Naptha is a little faster drying if that’s what you’re looking for. But its usually more expensive too.
Hi Marc,
I am going to make this cutting board and I saw another plan for similar type board and it had rubber bumpers screwed to the bottom. Do you think your cutting board needs them so the cutting board won’t slide around on the counter when trying to cut something? Also, I was thinking of adding a 1/4 inch maybe 3/16 inch deep rabbit on top to collect any juices from my stakes that I plan to cook and cut on the cutting board? Any comments would be appreciated. Thank you…..
Hey Dave. There is nothing wrong with adding the rubber feet if you want. I never really feel the need to do that and I don’t have a problem with my boards sliding around. If the board winds up warping on you, you could very well add them to help keep the board stable.
And although I don’t always put a drip edge on mine, they are a great feature to have on a cutting board. Although I would highly recommend using a core-box bit for this, and not a straight bit. Its much easier to clean the juices out of a shallow groove with a rounded bottom.
Good luck!
Hey Marc,
I’ve made end grain cutting boards in the past, but now that I’m a Purdue Mechanical Engineering student with access to the machine shop I’ve got a few ideas. I would like to make the board out a wood thats almost black in color. Then I plan on using the CNC machine to add the Purdue “P”, which I will inlay with a lighter colored wood, like maple. My question is what is a good wood to use for the base of the board? Ideally it would almost be black (to match the purdue colors), but as you said it should be closed grain and I want it to be reasonably machinable. Any Ideas?
I’m not the expert, but I’ve made boards with walnut before. It has some issues; the dust is apparently toxic, and the grain is fairly open, but dust mask + sealing the board seems to have covered both of those bases.
Yeah I think the only reason to really avoid walnut in an end grain cutting board is if you know someone in your family has a severe nut allergy and you are a bit paranoid about it. Better safe than sorry, you know?
And to answer Greg, I think walnut is about as far as you are going to get with a dark colored wood. Endtrain walnut, when coated with an oil, can be pretty darn dark.
What kind of saw blade are you using to cut these for the rip and the cross cut? I?m having a hard time cutting through these without having some issues.
I use a Forrest 40-tooth woodworker II
That?s what I?m using.
Perhaps my saw is a little under powered? I have a 1 1/2 HP motor in my saw and the blade gets bogged down and stops. Do you think if I switched to a thin kerf blade it would help any?
Thin kerf will definitely help. If you are bogging down, I would absolutely move to thin kerf.
It seems my issue was electrical for my saw; it seems to be sawing a lot better.
I was also wondering when you get to last three or four inches to cut after the first glue up, what do you use to help you cut it?
I use a push stick for that Marly, unless I misunderstand your question.
Sometimes there really are stupid questions. :)
I was having so many problems I ended up buying a new table saw. I went to a 3 HP saw and it cut through everything like a hot knife through butter. :)
Glad you found a solution to your problem, Marly…nothing wrong with more power..arrgh! I had a similair problem to yours as mine is only 1.5 hp trying to push a 40 tooth WWII as well. My solution was to use a thin kerf blade with less teeth. Against better judgement, I used a 10X24 rip blade for those crosscuts but the cuts were fairly clean and effortless. I figured even if I got horrible tearout, it wouldn’t matter as I would have to plane/sand the tops after the glue up anyway. My 10X24 thin kerf rip is my “go to” blade for all rips/crosscuts for stock over 1″ thick. As an example, my 1.5HP TS will not bog down on 1.75″ Jatoba!
hello marc.
i m an accountant by profession but woodwork attracts me alot. i m from pakistan and i want to learn this art. This site is nothing less than a treasure to me. i m trying to collect tools right now. i hope u’ll b a great help in future too. This video/artwork is truly amazing. i wonder how easy it seems when u play with wood. Here in my country i’ve never seen someone so confident with the project. keep doing the good job.
Regards,
A student.
Hi marc,
I have a question about the finishes you are describing. Am I misunderstanding, or are you refering to “wiping varnish” and “salad bowl finish” as the same thing?
I have tried to source them locally, but I am wondering if the common name is different in Canada. Lee Valley tells me they have items under both names, but that they are diffeent items. And, neither is quite what you seem to be describing. The guy I spoke to told me that he would not recomend what they sell as wiping varnish for a cutting board.
And, what they sell as salad bowl finish looks like it is simply a pre-mixed blend of mineral oil and bees wax. So, it might work for me, but it doesn’t sound like what you are describing.
Any ideas?
Hey Simon. Salad bowl finish, unfortunately, is a very generic name. It could mean anything. So you have to actually look at the ingredients to figure out what’s in it. The salad bowl finish I used on the show is indeed the same thing that is in a can of “wiping varnish”.
To address the question of whether you should use a varnish on an end grain cutting board, check out this post where I explain my viewpoint thoroughly: http://www.thewoodwhisperer.co.....rd-finish/
In summary, varnish applied to a end grain board, in the method I describe in this video, provides a great finish for a cutting board. If you are making a long grain board or if you just don’t like the idea of using the varnish, then the mineral oil and beeswax would be a fantastic option.
Hi Marc,
I greatly appreciate the details in your webcasts, allowing for a variety of options and applications — awesome job!
I would very much like to create an end-grain counter-top (approx. 6′ x 24″) for a bar-counter, as well as a matching island top for a small 24″-square rolling cabinet in my kitchen. I’d like to use varying shades of lyptus to create a subtle pattern. I am theoretically new to woodworking, though I once made an edge-grain butcher block of maple and cherry in woodshop (27 years ago) that my mother uses today — so I guess it held up alright.
Clearly, I would start with the small island top, before tackling the larger unit. Do you have any specific tips for extrapolating to other dimensions, and for working with and maintaining a piece that large? Also, is there a suggested thickness for a typical counter-top?
Thanks for any advice!
Hey Mel. If you are looking to design a larger end grain surface, I would take the time to load up this program: http://www.lastalias.com/cbdesigner/
Thinking through the multi-step process to decide on the relative size of parts and their position in the final design. So this program should be able to help. I haven’t used it myself.
As for the counter thickness, I’d say anything from 1 1/2″ to 2.5″will work. The whole thing should be supported so you don’t have to worry too much about it being too thin.
Now I do want to say that I have never made an end grain design on such a large scale. I get questions about it all the time so I know people have had success with it. But depending on how you orient the grain, you can have stability issues. Plus there are so many glue joints that the opportunity for problems is significantly multiplied. Just be sure to take some time to organize that grain properly so you stack the cards in your favor.
Nice!
Thanks!
Marc,
I was wondering if I could use the same concepts of an end grain cuttng board for an island counter top. Which would you use? To give you a little better idea. I have honey maple (store stock) cabnets.
One more question….I am a 42 rookie just starting in the hobby. I watch all your safety podcast. Would your guild be good for me to join, being a rookie and all?
Thanks
David
Hey David. Yes the same concepts apply. If it were my countertop, I would use the varnishing method. At least a coat or two to seal things up. But that’s just my personal preference.
As for the Guild, I would say its PERFECT for a rookie. The idea of the Guild is to show you every step of a project in detail. Nothing is skipped. So if you are trying to understand joinery and how a furniture piece goes together, the Guild is right up your alley. In fact, a more experienced woodworker might be put off by all the extra details, since they may already know these things. But the Guild still offers something for them since we are building decent-sized projects with some rather complex parts.
All in all, a great investment in your woodworking education. Give it a shot. If you don’t like it, I’ll refund you money. :)
Hi
This video i think was the one that got me hooked on woodworking. I love to cook so i figured i could batch out a bunch of these as gifts and for myself.
I tried two finishes. Mineral oil and the others a varnish butcher block finish i got from home depot (couldn’t find the General Finishes one locally). I like the look of the mineral oil one more as varnish seems to be a bit amberish, BUT the mineral oil board developed a crack along two of the glue joints.
Im going to inject some glue with a syringe, reclamp it, sand the mineral oil off and redo the finish with the varnish.
I didn’t leave it exposed to water or any moisture (i had feet on the bottom of it as well to lift it off the counter). I just think the process of using it, washing it off and drying it left enough moisture to cause the crack.
Everyone i show these to ABSOLUTELY loves them. And are kinda shocked i was able to make them.
Thanks so much Marc for this video.
I’ve watched these two videos countless times over the last couple years, wishing I could make some of these boards myself. Well, two weeks ago, I finally picked up the last piece of the toolset I needed — a planer. Had the morning free today, so drove the hour to Dunham’s Hardwoods to pick up the wood for the project – even talked about this video with my buddy at the shop for a while. And then lo and behold, I come home this afternoon, refresh the browser window (looked at the video again last night…) and it’s featured on a rewind. Cool! (They didn’t have 8/4 Purpleheart on hand, so I ended up going with hard maple and cherry). Now just need to make the time to get the project done!
Awesome Eric! Glad to hear you’ll finally have a chance to make one. Be sure and let us know how it turns out.
Marc, These two vids offer more info on end grain cutting boards as far as explaining construction and finishing than any I have watched. Plus they are entertaining as well. As always a big well done.
Great video, Marc. I plan to make a cutting board using mesquite and maple or pecan. I haven’t seen anything positive or negative on the use of pecan in cutting boards. What are your thoughts? Also would white oak (not red oak) be suitable?
Hey Brad. From what I understand, pecan is a lot like hickory, or it actually IS hickory. There’s a little flexibility in the terminology there. Either way its very dense and hard and would probably work well in a cutting board. White oak is also dense and its end grain is somewhat “plugged up”, making it a better choice that something like red oak. So I think white oak would be OK.
Wish I had seen your video before I finished 2 cutting boards. I would have done several things a little differently. Always enjoy your work.
Do you think 1 coat of a salad bowl finish, followed by 2-3 coats of mineral oil and wax makes sense? My thought is that the varnish will seal the grain, then the oil wax would hold up to the knife better.
If the salad bowl finish is thinned, it will only partially seal the grain. So you might still be able to use an oil/wax on top of it as your maintenance finish. If you seal too much, it really won’t make a whole lot of sense.
Awesome video. I find myself thinking I could do a project if only I had a planer and jointer. How feasible is it to do a project like this without a power planer and jointer?
If you buy pre-surfaced lumber and you are careful with your glueups, I think its definitely possible. You might want to double check but I believe the Bell Forest kits are actually pre-surfaced.
It’s easy enough to joint wood with the table saw if you make yourself a simple jointing jig. I have a couple I use quite often.
Basically, all you need is a 4′ long piece of mdf with a straight edge that rides against the fence and a couple of toggle clamps to secure your stock.
You’ll be surprised how nice an edge you can get if you’re using a decent blade. In fact, you should be able to do your glue ups without any further milling.
I like the patterned look and will be ordering wood shortly to make one myself.
Thanks for the tips on how to finish. I would not have known how to best finish a cutting board.
Maybe I’m going nuts, but the pattern on the cutting board at the beginning of the video shows a different pattern than the one Mark actually makes. I am making this cutting board now and my pattern matches Mark’s finished one in the video.
I’m curious if Mark has a video of the cutting board with the SMALL boards in the center of the board instead on the outer bands of the board.
Hmmm.
Jay
Hey Jay. good news! You’re not going nuts. But I might be. :) Read the comments at the end of this post and you’ll get a full explanation: http://www.thewoodwhisperer.co.....rd-finish/
Thanks Mark for the very fast reply. I wasn’t expecting that…
BTW, I am making a couple of these for the first time. I am using them as a center piece for my parents 50th wedding anniversary. We will make one a cheese board and the other a fruit board. Post the celebration, I will present one of them to my parents for being together 50 years.
Thanks for your talent Mark!
Jay
I have a lot to learn about woodcrafting, but isn’t “end grain” the grain on the end of the board? Your design seems like it is actually long grain chopped up. Instead of ripping down the length of the board, shouldn’t I cross cut?
You are correct about end grain. But the key to this design is the flip after the second glue up, which exposed the endgrain.
Well, I’m sure several of you seasoned woodworkers will know the answer to this question, here you go.
After completing the PH/Maple cutting board and sanding it with 100 grit then 220 grit, it came down very smooth! You could not feel any joints of PH or maple. However, I went back out to the shop tonight and noticed as I rubbed across the board that I can feel each piece of wood as if I hadn’t completed the sanding.
Is my wood still moving after being in the shop for weeks and making sure I allowed several days between each cut?
Thanks
Jay
Hey Jay. This is something that can happen occasionally with a board like this. The first time it happens in the shop is usually because the glue is curing. The glue has a tendency to “creep” a little. Just sand again with 220 and that should remove it. Also keep in mind that as the board is used and cleaned, it will likely do it again. This is normal. I usually wait about 6 months or so and let the cutting board get some good use. Then I take it back into the shop, give it a nice sanding with 180 or 220 grit, reapply some finish, and bring it back into the kitchen. I find that this second treatment keeps the board nice and smooth for quite a bit longer than the first.
Marc, thanks dude… That is what I was hoping you would say as I was starting to question my application of building the board.
I will do as you instructed and wish you thank you again!
Jay
Thanks for some awesome ideas Marc! I’ve almost finished my 1st cutting board and it looks great. It will probably take some practice to get them lining up perfectly. I’ve used recycled timbers which have left a few insect holes. Would epoxy work for filling the holes?
Cheers,
Lewis
Yup! That’s what I would use.
Hey Marc,
Why do you cut the salad bowl finish with mineral spirits? What is the disadvantage of applying the salad bowl finish 100% with no cut?
Thanks
Jay
The cut is to simply make the material thinner so it absorbs deeper into the wood. Several coats of a thinned mixture, in this case, will lead to more finish being trapped inside the wood fibers. A thicker (no dilution) finish will not penetrate as deeply and will seal too quickly.
Thanks for the great vidio! I have made the first of four. After I final sanded it, it looked great but I noticed the purple in the Purpleheart changed into Walnut color! What happened? All I did was sand it.
Hey Jim. Purpleheart acts funny like that sometimes. But don’t worry. The purple color will come back. Usually by the time you put some finish on the board you’ll see the color coming back. Although since its end grain, it will always be darker than the normal face grain of purpleheart.
Hey Marc,
This may seem like the millionth question on this, so please forgive me for that.
I went to CVS and picked up mineral spirits, which I then realized was a intestinal laxative. You are talking about the same thing right? I’ve read and heard you say that it has multiple uses and can be found for various purposes. I’m guessing that the stuff I bought is food safe if you can ingest it.
The other question relates to this also. I had some poplar sitting around so I made the end grain board out of it. I have been applying the mineral oil for a few days now, and it is just starting to significantly soak through to the bottom. Is this because the mineral oil is so think, or because the properties of poplar?
Thanks, appreciate what you are doing.
Hey Mills. Just to clear up the terminology, mineral spirits is a very different thing than mineral oil. You mention mineral spirits in the first part but mineral oil in the second. Just want to make sure we’re on the same page here. And yes, the mineral oil/laxative is indeed the stuff I talk about in the video.
The answer to your second question is both. Some woods allow material to flow through much faster than others. And the more viscous the oil, the longer it takes to go through. Sometimes it may never go through. Now if the oil has soaked through to the other side, you can certainly stop applying it at this point. In all likelihood you will have to keep the board in the shop for a few days just to make sure it doesn’t leak oil all over the place. :)
Marc,
My local lumber supplier doesn’t carry “Hard/Rock” Maple. All they have is soft maple. Will that work for this project? What’s another good substitute for maple?
Soft maple will work, its just not quite as hard as maple. I have seen folks use things like cherry and walnut in their cutting boards, but maple really is the best choice in my opinion.
Hey Marc,
Awesome video!! As a beginner this video really has me anxious to start. Our existing board is 18? wide by 24? long and
Hey Chris. A cutting board like this, with so many cuts and milling steps, is very tricky to nail down an exact dimension. So just be aware that even if you figure out all the math, reality may change the numbers a bit.
As for the material, the starting thickness of your board does NOT affect the final thickness. The final thickness is determined by how wide your cuts are when you cut down the first glueup. If you cut them to 3/4″ wide, you’ll then flip them over to expose the end grain, and what was the width is now the thickness. So as a result, the starting thickness of the boards only affects the dimensions of the blocks in the pattern. Obviously this can get quite confusing.
To increase the width, you either need to make the starting strips wider, or simply add more to the pattern.
I would recommend trying the program we link to above. Here’s the link again: http://www.thewoodwhisperer.co.....-software/
I haven’t tried it, but it supposedly allows you to design your own board and it should answer all your questions.
Marc,
Thanks for the comments. That software program is PERFECT!! It does answer all of my questions and then some! Thanks so much for providing that link!!!
Marc,
I have made a number of end grain boards but on my final glue up they are a little uneven. I wanted to send them through a planer and have read that you can do this with very fine cuts. Other posts say this is an absolute no-no and very dangerous with end grain wood. Any thoughts? I have a narrow hand held belt sander but am worried about making the boards a little uneven and I don’t think I can hand plane 12 boards. Thanks for any help.
Ross
Hey Ross. I usually recommend sanding or using a shop made router sled to flatten the board. I’m not a big fan of running them through the planer. In fact, in the description above there are some links at the end of the article. You’ll see one referencing an article on that exact topic.
Hey Marc,
So I’m finally knee deep into my boards but I’m kind of stuck. I have all my boards ripped and glewed (maple, ph, maple, ph, etc.) but now I need to start cutting so I can get my end grain up. Since I was only to obtain 4/4 stock, i had to compensate with longer runs of woood. My overall width of the board is 18″, and the length currently sits around 41″. The table saw i’m using is a dewalt construction job site model and the “table” part of it is very small and the miter part seems very flimsy. I’m sure you can see how hard this first cut would be as the board won’t just fit on the saw. Since I assume that the first straight cut is important to keep as close to 90 degrees as possible, how does one manage to cut it? Is there a safe and easy way or is it just a learned skill?
Thanks in advance by the way!! I’m having SO much fun with this project that I already ordered some new wood for my next boards (African Mahogany, Hickory, and Jatoba).
Kindest regards,
Chris
From what you describe, it sounds like you are cutting a piece that is much longer than it is wide. Cutting that into strips, using the method shown in the video, is going to be very dangerous. The likelihood of a kickback is very high. So one thing you might consider doing is making a cross-cut sled for your tablesaw. This will give you a larger platform to rest the board on, while also make the cut nice and safe. You can clamp the board to the sled’s fence for each cut and your cut quality will improve dramatically as well. I think that’s your best bet.
Hey Marc,
Just a quick question (hopefully my last!) So I made a nice big cross cut sled out of 1/2″ MDF and some 2×6′s and was sucessful at ripping my 42″ long x 18″ wide glue up. The pieces were a bit warped, due to I believe my waiting to figure out how to cut the piece. I wasn’t worried much about it as I figured the clamping/glue phase would just smush (Technical term) them together. I wasn’t counting on the glue to dry during the phase (good learning experience there…). Anyways I have a nice endgrade board at 18″ wide by 22″ long with 10 to 15 small gaps between some of the pieces. I watched your video on how to repair a board with epoxy and was wondering if that would work with my problem? I also read about using stick shellac to “burn-in”. I was thinking about using one of those methods prior to my varnish finish. Would either of those work and is it a good idea to use them? Also, what tooth count do you suggest for cross-cutting material?
Thanks in advance!!!!
Chris
Hey Chris. You can certainly fill the gaps with epoxy, but be prepared that you may have a self-destructing board on your hands. If you have that many gaps, chances are the areas that don’t have a gap are somewhat weakened too. So be very careful with the board. I think epoxy is probably a good choice for the gaps because it will help to hold them together. But I do have to give a bit of a safety disclaimer here. I use epoxy to fix a very small gap here or there, or in the case of my other video, a very large crack. The actual surface area containing epoxy is minimal. If you have a lot of gaps and if they happen to be a little wide, you have much more epoxy surface area on the board. While I personally think its fine, I cannot state this from any place of authority. Its just a belief based on my personal research. So the final decision will have to be yours.
If you are using maple and ash, could you stain one of them to get the contrast of color?
I wouldn’t. I try not to stain anything that will contact food.
Any suggestions on a way to keep the wood from sliding around when you’re doing the final glue up? As I?m putting pressure on the wood with the clamps, the strips will move around. Before I can get them back in place, the glue sets.
marly
Hey Marly. There are two options that I recommend. One is to use a set of cauls. One on top and one on the bottom will allow you to sandwich the board and hold all the pieces flat and even while you apply clamping pressure across the board.
A second option, but only on the final glueup, is to use biscuits or dowels to help stop the strips from sliding.
Marc,
Made one of these for the Family Gift Exchange.
I want to thank you for the inspiration, and I thought I’d send a couple of photos you & everyone could see how it turned out.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com.....d01f80.jpg
I am not 100% happy with the finish, but I do know finishing is something I need to work on – I also know family probably won’t notice, or care.
Another photo, of how I personalized it:
http://farm6.static.flickr.com.....cb2bff.jpg
I just used a steel letter/number punch set for this – and decided afterwards I will build a little jig to hold the punches properly aligned for the next time I want to stamp something. I filled in the letters with a gold paint pen, so they’d stand out against the wood better.
I just realized I don’t know if this thing will let me post photos in the comments, so I am also going to submit this as a “viewer project”
Thanks again for all you do!
-Kevin in Indy
Hey Marc,
I’m a little surprised that 3 years after your original post that you are still getting feedback and responding to comments. Nice work!
I recently made an end grain cutting board as you directed and ran into a problem. After the first glue up and sanding (belt sander and random orbit) I went to cut the board and proceed to the second glue up. When I was lining the boards up I kept noticing that the edges of the strips were touching, but the center of most of the strips was concave. Is this due to too much sanding in the middle of the board and not enough around the outside edge?
I went to glue up the board and clamped it, and the two outer strips on each end cracked in the middle. I let the glue set and filled the cracks with a thin CA glue. After using the salad bowl finish the board looks good, but there is a noticeable bow in the strips.
Thanks for any feedback!
Hey Mills. I think you are correct. If that 1st glueup isn’t dead flat, you are going to be in for some trouble during the second round of glueups. Obviously equipment may be a limitation here but if you have access to a planer or drum sander, that would make your life a whole lot easier. Trying to achieve a flat and true surface with a belt sander is VERY difficult. You might also consider using planes instead of sanders for this task. At least with a plane you have a little more control.
And as you noticed, of you carry those flaws through the project, they will show themselves at later stages. Glad you got a serviceable board out of it though.
Good luck!
Hi Marc,
Been itching to make another endgrain cutting board;actually, my wife itching for me to get going on a 6 month old request.
My last one was 35 years ago, so no working memory of how to do it; your design is just the thing.
However, I do want help on one option I’d like to do. And that is to put a juice ‘gutter’ around the edge with a ball end mill cuttter in my router.
Have you done that, and how do you jig it up so you don’t over-run the corners?
Thanks,
Mike
Wow! FANTASTIC video! It is incredibly impressive, entertaining, thoughtful and engaging! Found your site (goggled, “what is end-grain” after purchasing a gorgeous board from William Sonoma for a steal) and really enjoyed watching/learning. My SO’s grandfather is a woodworker but unfortunately, his health sometimes keeps him from his shop.
Also, great website! (from a former web dev)
bb
oh and the piano music in the video brought a smile to our faces as it is the same music found in Chef John’s videos (google it).
I recently found some Alder and Mahogany in 8/4 thickness from a local millshop. Do you think these woods would work well together for a good cutting board?
Alder is a little soft and if its African Mahogany, that’s a little soft too. Not to say you can’t use them, just that they aren’t the “ideal”.
Oils
I read often that “vegetable oils go rancid.” However, on the (bought) boards we’ve used, I have used nothing but olive oil (because that’s what we use in cooking).
Where’s the evidence that olive oil goes rancid? Have you actually tried it?
For cleaning, it’s a rinse under the tap with a light rub of a soft scourer then either straight back to work, or drain on edge in a dish rack.
Regarding cutting of meat, why’s it called a butcher’s block? I recall butchers chopping meat on a wooden block (that, I guess is why the results are called chops).
Well ultimately, its your board and you can use whatever you like. But olive oil does indeed go rancid over time. And that’s why I haven’t tried it. There are enough reports and stories from credible sources to convince me its not worth experimenting with. But again, its your board so do what you like.
And you nailed it on the name. A butcher block refers to the old hunks of wood butchers used to use to hack away at meat (typically end grain).
would mahogany be a good wood to use for a cutting board?
sorry i should specify honduras mahogany
I try not to make absolute claims about the safety of exotics in cutting boards. But I don’t think I would have a problem using mahogany (other than the price) :).
thank you for your speedy reply , I already have some thats why i ask . i guess ill use it for something else thank you again
-Mike
how would wenge be as a substitute for the purple heart? Its fairly tight grained isn’t it?
I don’t think its a good choice. It can be very brittle and has relatively open grain.
I really like the look of these butcher blocks!
I have a question about creating a channel in the end grain. I’d like to create a board to be used primarily as a carving board, and want to create a channel to catch any drippings from roasts and turkeys, etc.
Is there any concern that the channel will stand up over time? I guess the sides of the channel are really no different than the sides of the board itself and the woods chosen are hard enough to keep their shape?
I am new to wood working (loving it) and am trying a bunch of different things. I have as of now been working with pine for random things and have just been picking that up at the local Home Depot. Can you order these other woods that you use for the cutting board at a store like that or where would you suggest getting it at.
Also I don’t have a table saw yet but have a miter saw that cuts up to 16 inches would this work? Ot could i make a smaller one with it till i get a table saw? Or does it not make as clean of cuts?
Hi Amber. You will definitely want to look for a local hardwood dealer to find materials for this project. Home Depot doesn’t have much of a selection plus they are very pricey. You can actually buy a wood kit for this project using the link in the article above. Bell Forest sells very nice kits specifically for this project.
Now I don’t want to say this project is impossible to make without a tablesaw, but it would be quite difficult. As you can see in the video, I rely on it a lot. Without perfectly-cut pieces, the entire design can be thrown off and the joints will suffer. A mitersaw is great for cross-cutting, but not for ripping which is the primary operation you are doing in this project. So a miter saw just isn’t enough to get the job done safely and accurately.
If you are really good with a hand plane, you could always rough cut the pieces and then plane them to appropriate size, but that would be one heck of a job!
great video on cutting board. wood also like more inf on different specie of wood to use. wanted to buy the video, but shipping cost were killer.
great video on cutting board. wood also like more info on different specie of wood to use. wanted to buy the video, but shipping cost were a killer.
Hey I loved your cutting board. I made one for my mom and she just loved it. I owe it all to you thanks.
Finally finished my second cutting board, (the first was, let’s say, a learning experience) and it came out great!…..until the finish. I was sanding with a 400 grit custom shop-made sanding block, (read: sandpaper stapled to scrap) before the final salad bowl finish, when i inadvertently reversed the block in my hand and scratched the heck out of the board by sanding staple side down. I didn’t notice this for a second, and managed to get 10-12 good scratches in the board before i stopped. After i finished a profanity infused seizure, I used the random orbital to buff it back out. I then applied final coat of salad bowl finish, but it looks reeeaaallly uneven. Anyone have any ideas on how to smooth this out? Can I just throw on a few more layers of thinned salad bowl finish and darken it up? Or should I admit defeat and belt sand it all back off and reapply? Can I even do that or has the oil penetrated the entire board? It doesn’t appear the board wants to take any more oil, it’s not absorbing well…..help!!
I have made many chopping blocks. My question to you is why does so many of my end grain blocks split after a while
That’s really tough to say why without actually seeing each board. Could be insufficient clamping pressure or not enough glue. Could be internal pressures in the wood or an unfortunate grain orientation. Have any pictures of the splits?
Hey Marc,
Excellent video on making an end-grain cutting board. Actually, all the videos on your website are great, I’ve learned a lot.
I’ve built an end-grain board using your techniques as a baseline, but I’m stumped on the best way to add a “juice well”. My plan so far was to use a plywood template, slightly smaller than the dimensions of the board, with double-stick tape on it. Then I would run the router on the outer edge of this to create the juice well.
Any thoughts?
Thanks, and keep up the good work!
Ryan
That’s exactly how I would do it. If your boards are all a predictable size, you can make yourself a nice template that you can use over and over. I would use a core box bit for the groove itself and make it in numerous passes. If you take off too much or you let the router sit in one place too long, you are going to have burning like crazy. So light passes and keep the router moving. Then sand away any burning. That’s exactly how I’d handle it.
Thanks Marc, your reply is hugely appreciated.
Cheers,
Ryan
Marc, I enjoyed this video. I recently took a woodworking class, and one of the things were were to make was a cutting board, but it was to be made with Edge grain for the cutting surface. it turned out pretty well, we just used.
Is there any real difference between end grain, edge grain, or face grain when it comes to a cutting board?
Hey Bryan. It is generally believed that end grain is more gentle on knives and tends to last longer than both edge grain and face grain boards. But honestly for most homeowners, it probably won’t have a massive impact either way.
Ahh, ok, i can understand that. Thanks!
Hey Marc, thanks for this video, I’m making the board now! I love it!
Quick question. I have done my final glue up and have sanded thoroughly and have a nice even surface. But I have found that I have a few very minor, very small gaps where some of the pieces join. I think I may have 3, 2 on one side, 1 on the other. They are very very small, but still, since all the other pieces fit together like a single piece of wood, the gaps just bother me. My wife didn’t even notice, but I do. What should I do here? Should I just leave them alone and varnish as you explain, or should I try to fill them somehow? I need some advice. They’re surface gaps; overall the board is solid as a rock. And they’re very small/minor, as I mentioned.
Thanks!
Hey Chuck. I would probably be tempted to fill the with epoxy. Problem is, that might not have the desired effect you want because the joint will still be visible. But at least it will be secured and smooth. So what I would do is give the board a few coats of finish. Let that soak in and seal the wood. Then tape off the area around the cracks and fill with epoxy, driving the epoxy in with a putty knife. The tape will prevent a big mess and the pre-sealed wood is a lot less likely to discolor from soaking in any wayward epoxy. Once the epoxy dries, remove the tape and scrape/sand the epoxy smooth with the surface. You’ll probably want to lightly sand the entire surface at this point anyway. Then reapply as many coats as needed to fill the grain but not build a film. And you should be good to go!
tape off the area around the gap and then use a putty knife to drive some epoxy into the gap. Good taping here will pay off later since the epoxy will soak right into the end grain and you’ll have to so more sanding to get rid of the staining.
Awesome, thanks! Do you have a video about how to seal with epoxy by any chance??
Also, do I mix sawdust into the epoxy so the color will match the board?
That’s a negatory on the epoxy video. And you certainly can mix the epoxy with sawdust, but keep in mind it will still be quite dark and won’t necessary look like wood. But it might help tone the epoxy a little so it might be a little less noticeable.
Sorry, last question :) What about wood filler/putty, which may blend in with the lighter wood? They’re only surface gaps. Just a thought.
With a work surface like a cutting board, the wood movement is likely going to pop any sort of wood filler right out. So I like to fill with something that has more grippy characteristics.
Good point. Thanks for all the help. I’ll try epoxy!
I’ve read in previous comments where a couple people are concerned about the crosscuts performed against the fence. Since I’ll be doing this cut myself in the next day or so I too want to proceed as safely as I can. Marc, I read your replies to those previous posts and understand and see how a seasoned professional like yourself can be comfortable doing this cut. I, on the other hand, have considerably less experience so went searching for an alternate setup that may make it a bit more fault tolerant for this beginner. What if one were to use the fence with small block, a stop block I suppose, attached to the front and leading edge – this sets the cutting width. With the workpiece firmly abutted to the block, use the miter gauge to feed it through. The workpiece will clear the small block attached to the front of the fence leaving it unencumbered by the fence both on the leading and trailing edge of the saw blade. This seems, according to limited experience, a bit safer as there is nothing holding the workpiece close to the back of the blade. If it happens to be a bit more safe, am I trading off precision in the repetitive cuts?
As always – I love your instruction. Thank you for your efforts; they are greatly appreciated
I completely understand Brian. That method is actually quite common when doing cuts that result in a cut off piece falling between the fence and the blade. Its a great workaround. But in this case, I’m not sure. First, I would say that in order to get consistent and straight cuts, you are definitely going to have to clamp the board to the miter gauge. So let’s assume you do that. After the first few cuts, your board is getting narrower and narrower. Eventually, you will have no choice but to convert to a ripping operation using the fence in a standard position. So you’re going to need to be real careful about the fence position so that the pieces are exactly the same as the ones you cut with the miter gauge.
So its completely up to you if you want to go that route. But ultimately, even for a beginner, I would still recommend the method shown in the video. But if its something that you don’t feel comfortable with, then you should absolutely focus on a workaround. Always listen to your gut in the shop.
I’m happy to report there were no issues in performing the crosscut using the Marc technique. I did do one thing a bit different, though. From safety week I learned of the MicroJig Grrr-riper product that you reviewed. I picked one up and I must say it makes me feel like a table saw hero. Having that little bit of extra confidence has served me well in becoming more accomplished at the saw.
One last thought that I’d love your insight on if you have the time –
You obviously do a two stage glue-up in your process. Is there any compelling reason to not perform the first rip cuts then immediately cross cut those into small blocks to expose the end grain and then perform one glue-up?
Motivation for this is:
The clean-up and resurfacing after the first glue-up gave me a bit of grief as I don’t have a large surface sander or other such equipment. Using a hand sander resulted in some slight inconsistencies in the two faces being coplanar which then required a bit more work before I could get a good flush fit for the second glue-up.
thanks so much!
Glad to hear everything worked out for the most part. As for the question about cutting the parts and doing one glueup, I wouldn’t do it. It could potentially multiply your error simply because you are now doing more individual cuts. You will also have a heck of a time with the glueup. Trying to manage that many little pieces is very difficult. And trying to get them all to line up properly is going to be a nightmare. That’s they joy of this method. If done right, everything lines up perfectly without having to deal with individual squares.
Hi Brian& Mark,
I can appreciate the pitfalls of both set-ups so my method and solution would be to use a combination of a cross cut sled and a rip fence to maximize safety. I believe a cross cut sled is the ultimate safety tool when cutting pieces longer than the wide. So I start with the sled until the piece is nearly square. Then I remove the sled an continue just with the rip fence. Yes, there is a small issue of consistency of the width of the cut but I find I need to trim to size the pieces anyway since the wood tends to “move” after the cross cuts. After the cross cuts some tension in the wood is released and some of the pieces are slightly bowed which confounds the final glue-up. I suspect this is why some folks have gaps in the final glue-up. Therefore, after all the cross cuts, I trim ~1/32 from one side and then ~1/32 from the other side using only the rip fence, effectively jointing these faces and making them identical in width. (See Mark Koons article in FWW #205) Remember, these pieces now all have the long side against the fence so the chance of it twisting during the final rip cut is minimal thus reducing kickback.
Hi Marc,
You mentioned in an earlier post, that resurfacing the board after 6 month probation period is almost like “pre-raising the grain” before finishing… Could you please describe the steps involved in that process?
Also, what are the pros/cons of pre-raising the grain? Does it eliminate the need to resurface after 6 months? I.e., when I give them as gifts, should I tell ppl to resurface them after a certain amount of time, or are they good to go? (assuming I use the 50/50 varnish)
Thanks so much!
Kash
ps. your website is awesome. and you are cool.
Hey Kash. There really isn’t much to it. Just use the board for a while, make sure its thoroughly dry, then take it into the shop for a light 320 grit sanding. The sanding will smooth out the surface nicely, and you can recoat with your finish of choice at that time. This new surface should stay smoother longer.
When you give them as gifts, you probably just want to let it go. Maybe give them some instructions for resurfacing since at some point they probably will want to do that. But this whole idea is just a woodworker being picky about something because he can, if you know what I mean. Frankly, its a cutting board and its going to get roughed up, unless it never gets used. So this is only something I do to my own boards to make them smoother to the touch. Doesn’t affect the looks or functionality in any way and I probably would never even mention it to a gift recipient.
Hey Marc,
First off I enjoy watching your videos. Now i have question, other than using a table saw what is a good way to cut the end grain of the board while still being accurate? I was thinking my sliding miter gage, but was worried about the stop block and the piece having nowhere to go against the blade.
What other “safe” ways can these pieces be cut to the same width?
Thanks
I suppose if you design a jig of some sort, you could use a circular saw to do the job. I know some folks have successfully made this cutting board without a tablesaw. I just don’t know the details of what they did.
Marc, awesome video and love that you used Purple Heart. I made my wife the Heart Shaped Box out of Purple Heart and have enough left over for the cutting board.
Looking forward to joining the Guild someday soon.
Cheers, Scott
Folks,
This was to be my first project of this kind. I am fairly handy, having done wood floors, trim work, and a few work benches. These cutting boards were to be my first project of this kind. I bought the tools required with the blessing of my wife, and got 18 board feet of both rock maple and purple heart. After I planed the 8/4 down to the proper thickness, I cut off the pieces to 15.5″ and prepared to rip them to the desired widths for the first glue up.
That is where my problems began. My table saw, the Bosch 4100, had a fence measure which seems to be between 1/4″ and 1/2″ off. No problem, I will just measure from the piece to the blade, I thought. Ok, I made a few cuts and noticed I was getting the proper widths on the ends, but the middle of my workpieces were consistently too long. During the cuts I was getting a fair amount of smoke and burn marks on my pieces, though I put them through at what seems like a normal pace. I then began to notice the pieces appeared to have a slight miter to them, though the miter gauge is set to 0 and locked. At this point, I have almost all the pieces cut for my first glue up, but I have a feeling with them being off square they won’t marry up well.
Can anyone offer any advice on how to better use my table saw? I’ve watched the video repeatedly and think I have the process down. I feel like an idiot because I must be doing something wrong.
Bill
Hey Bill. Something like this can be quite tricky to troubleshoot without actually being there to experience it. But I can make a few general recommendations. First, make sure the saw is completely tuned up and calibrate: http://www.thewoodwhisperer.co.....neup-pt-1/
Then make sure you have a high quality after-market blade installed. With a saw of that power level, you probably want to go with a thin kerf so that there is less strain on the motor. And this should reduce the burning as well.
Hopefully these things will help you get cleaner and straighter cuts.
I should also mention that my one big failure in this video series was that I didn’t quite convey the difficulty level of this project. While some folks can knock them out with no problem, many are often surprised at how tricky it can be. Without proper setup, the difficulty level goes up exponentially.
Marc,
Thanks for the reply. I just ordered the Forrest WW10307100 Woodworker II 10-Inch 30 Tooth 5/8-Inch Arbor 3/32-Inch Kerf Circular Saw Blade. Once it arrives, I’ll carefully put it on and go through aligning the fence, knife, miter gauge, and all. I watched both your setup videos and had many facepalm moments.
I am using two push sticks as I feed the material into the blade. One is on the rear pushing forward and the second is pushing the material into the fence to make sure it doesn’t come off. I also only have the blade set to the height so it just clears the top of the material as it cuts.
I’ve been a longtime lurker on your site. Woodworking is something I hope to develop more skill in, but right now I am just a newbie. With that said, things that more experienced guys like you take for granted frustrate me. Ruining some of my purple heart and rock maple stock wasn’t the best way to spend my day, but it was a learning process.
I am very excited for the new blade. I work at a glacial pace, but when it is done I will let you all know how it came out.
Finally, thanks for doing what you do. With folks like yourself showing people how approachable woodworking is, I feel like it’s something I can do and share with others. Hopefully my cutting boards will make a great gift.
Bill
Hey Bill,
I hear your problem and I have been there and burnt that. I agree with Marc as anytime you’re smoking wood there’s an alignment problem between the blade and your fence/miter slot.
I would just add that after you have calibrated your saw check to see if the fence is secured well when it’s locked down. Some models have some play near the back end of the fence and if you are pushing your piece down hard and into the fence, it might be pushed out of alignment. Also, ensure the saw’s tilt adjustment is also secured at 90 degrees as when your pushing hard stock through, it can also be push out of alignment.
Another issue I found with this project is that uses extremely hard and thick wood…a huge difference if your are only used to cutting plywood, MDF etc. Hard maple and purpleheart at 2 inches thick will tax most entry/mid level table saws and blades. As Marc states go with thin kerf blades but I would also suggest drastically dropping the tooth count. The WW II is an excellent combo blade but at 30 teeth ( I have the 40 tooth) it might still be difficult with wood this hard and at 2 inches thick. My table saw has comparable power to yours and my WW II 40 tooth combo blade offered tremendous resistance with this wood. I then turned to a cheaper dedicated rip thin kerf blade with only 24 teeth and it cuts even harder wood than purpleheart like butter. Because it cuts this type of wood so easily, I even use the rip blade (gasp) for the crosscuts! Sure the smoothness of the cut suffers but it doesn’t matter with this project as these rough faces are not glued to each other but rather turned up to make the top/bottom surfaces.
Best of luck with your project. Let us know how it turns out.
Ian.
Do you have insurance coverage for your business? Reason I ask is Im trying to get my own wood business going and didnt know what I should do.
Just completed the cutting board in your video, and realized I forgot to turn the boards up for an End Grain cutting board. Am I screwed with this mistake?
Scott
So just to clarify, you glued the board back together end grain to end grain? Well, the problem is that the end grain glue joint is not very strong.So I hate to say it, but that could definitely be a problem in the long run. But go ahead and start using it and see what happens. :)
Hey Scott,
If (when) if does break (and it will neatly along the end grain joints), just re-cut down the glue lines then flip the end grain up and re-glue. Your board just won’t be as thick as it was but it still will look cool.
Hey Mark,
I just got finished making an end grain butcher block for my kitchen. It came out great…the bosses words, not mine!
I used Behlen salad bowl finish undiluted and gave it 3 coats. However, after the first use I’m already getting water marks. Any suggestions?
Thanks ,
Louis
Hey Louis. The problem is you now have a thick film of finish on top of your board, which is something I don’t recommend. Not only will you have water spots, you will also eventually cut through the finish giving moisture an bacteria a place to thrive. So if it were me, I’d scrape it down and try one of the finishing methods demonstrated in the video.
Thanks Mark
Great video. I made 10 for the bridal party at my upcoming wedding and am finally ready to finish (whew-lots of glue/clamp-ups!). In your video, you recommend a 50/50 mix btwn mineral spirits & General Finishes “Salad Bowl Finish”. However, I just picked up some General Finishes “Salad Bowl Finish” at Rockler and the instructions specify “Do not add thinner”. This may be a silly question, but should I be worried about adding thinner?
Thanks,
Kevin
Nope. Lots of cans of finish say that very same thing. Thinning the mixture changes its composition so I’m guessing its there way of being able to guarantee its behavior. But thinning really isn’t going to hurt anything at all.
Thanks for the quick response re adding thinner to the Salad Bowl Finish. Another newbie question: I am using Klean Strip “Green” Odorless Mineral Spirits and it is milky color. I did some research and found that there is an additive that prevents freezing which creates the milky color. Should I use a standard clear mineral spirit? I did a quick test finish and it looks fine, but concerned about food safety. Thanks again!
I would stick with the clear mineral spirits for now. I have a gallon of the new eco friendly stuff but haven’t really put it to the test with finishing. I am a bit apprehensive until I can prove it doesn’t affect clarity at all.
The fact that this project is now five years old, and this thread continues to be active, indicates what a challenging, interesting and fulfilling project it is. Simple on the surface, it is a test of your patience, attention to detail, and the setup of your tools. I’ve made about a dozen boards based on this plan, and I thought I would share some of my experiences. Here are some of the steps that I do differently.
Once I’ve planed the two planks to size I use the band saw to make the rip cuts, then run each piece through the jointer once to smooth the edge for the next band saw cut. Ripping wood this thick on my table saw is not a pleasant experience.
Sometimes I will do two cutting boards at once which cuts down the time.
Once the final glue up is done I make liberal use of the belt sander, as I can never get the pieces to glue up without some movement. I keep attacking the board from several directions to maintain a flat surface. I then use a random-orbital sander with 80 grit, then finish with 180 grit. Hold the board up to the light to see where more work is needed.
Once I’m happy with the sanded board, I run water over it to soak it, then tilt it vertically to dry. Re-sand with 180. Soak it again. Re-sand with 180. This will prevent the board from getting a rough surface the first time it is used.
Instead of routing hand holds, I use a forstner bit to make countersinks for four rubber feet. I attach them using stainless steel screws. These feet keep the board from sliding during use.
I apply a butcher block finish but its main value is that it makes the board look better. Once the board is in use, I don’t do anything to it.
Hope these ideas will help. Oh yeah – don’t skimp on the glue, especially near the ends of the boards. I’ve learned this the hard way!
Jim
Hi Marc, Thanks for the great video. I’m now working on my 2nd set of rock maple/purple heart cutting boards. I?ve run into a small problem. A day or so after sanding it perfectly smooth I start to notice the edges of the joints are back. I?m assuming one or both of the woods is swelling or shrinking with the humidity. Even after putting the salad bowl finish on it it?s doing that. Help!!
Thanks,
Troy
My suggestion would be to get used to it. :) An end grain cutting board contains so many joint lines, it is inevitable that they will surface due to wood movement, moisture, and glue creep. I have found the best thing to do is use the board for a few months. Once it starts to show some signs of wear, bring it back in the shop and re-sand the top lightly with 320 or 400 grit to smooth it out. Reapply another light coat of your finish and the board should stay smooth for longer now. This is almost like a “seasoning” process. But if/when the lines come back, don’t be too surprised.
Marc,
Even though it’s Thanksgiving Day, my boards aren’t quite ready for carving a turkey.
I made four boards (2 regular and 2 smaller ones). The problem I have is the appearance. The picture of your board shows a nice purple purpleheart contrasting very well with a very light-colored maple. Unfortunately, the maple in my boards are more of a light brown, similar to the natural color of cedar, and the purpleheart is just dark, not a good bright purple. The edges of the board actually show the colors much better, but the end grain turned out to be very muted and dull.
I used a drum sander followed by a random orbital sander and finally some hand sanding. I’m wondering if the picture of your board has been enhanced to show the colors and contrast. If not, what have I done wrong and can I correct it? Just so you know, I’ve already applied some mineral oil.
I hope you can help.
Happy Thanksgiving,
Joe
Hey Joe. This is all normal. The purpleheart’s color should become more “purply” over time and the maple should become a light brown color when hit with an oil. The only enhancement I added to the picture was lighting and time. So your color may become a little more vivid in a few weeks.
But overall, the boards do look fairly dull when it is all said and done.
I have a jet 16-32 drum sander that I have been using to sand the boards after the final glue up. They are coming out perfect, I?m very proud of the work that we did.
The only problem that I have is that I can only seem to take off about 1/32 or less while sanding otherwise I burn the wood. It takes me forever to slowly sand it.
Do the rest of you encounter this? I get bored just standing there. :)
The most important thing you can remember about a drum sander is that it is not a planer. So taking more than 1/32″ at a shot would be more than than the machine is intended for. Basically, if you’re not feeling bored then you’re using it wrong. :)
Well, I?m pretty bored. :) I ended up changing to a new sand paper roll and I ended up breaking the new one. I ordered a few new rolls and I got a 60 grit and an 80 grit.
I have been using the 80 girt and I was wondering if it would make any difference if I dropped down to the 60 for a few passes, then moved up to 80, then move up again? Or should I just stick with the 80?
I would stick with the 80. When sanding end grain, I find that using anything less than 80 tends to compress the fibers more than sand them. In other words, it turns into a mess quickly. The key is to take VERY light passes and multiple passes for each height adjustment.
Hey Marc
Thanks for the video……. Where can I find part 2 to this? I’m sure it is posted in here somewhere, just can’s seem to find it
Thanks
This video actually contains both parts 1 and 2. I just realized I had the wrong link for the HD version so I assume that’s the one you were watching. It is fixed now so the embedded player, the small version, and the large version should all correspond to the combined video containing 1 and 2.
Marc,
I just finished making a walnut endgrain buther’s block. I am very happy with my results and I have you to thank. I watched your video more than a couple of times to address concerns.
One issue I have that I cannot find an answer for is how to remove burn marks. I have 2 pesky little marks in hte middle of my board and I REALLY want to get them out. I have spent more than an hour using 80grit on a orbital sander but the buggers just won’t come out. Do you think I need to just keep sanding away?
I read about using a little mineral spirits as they will lift the grain and make removing the marks a breeze. There are no more specifics to that suggestion than what I gave you. Any tips?
Thank you again for all the information that you have shared.
Not sure I understand how the mineral spirits thing would work. Those burn marks are usually too deep for any grain raising trick to do anything. Basically, you have a few choices: sand, scrape, plane, or route. Sanding with 80 grit is one way to go. It does take patience. A drum sander is an even better option of you have access. A very sharp plane could work too. But I never really got very good results that way. Just too much darn end grain! And the routing process is a little involved and somewhat drastic. It involves running the router over the board using a jig that slides on rails. Think CNC. But you usually have router marks to clean up after this method so you’re sanding anyway.
So I would recommend trying a card scraper, followed by more sanding.
Marc, your site is the best! I can’t believe a cable channel hasn’t picked you up for a series! I just made two of your cutting boards, and then I found this article:
http://www.wwgoa.com/articles/.....ing-board/ . Basically, it’s the same board, but with a finger-joint twist -which, incidently, was a popular dance at my wedding. Anyway, it really spices it up nicely and I thought you’d like to see it. Thanks for all the great stuff you continue to do and best of luck with your new “apprentice”, Matteo.
haha now that’s a crazy cutting board. the finger joints really mess with your eyes! But that is very cool! Thanks for the kind words man and have a great holiday!
can I just poly the cutting board instead of the varnish???
Yes. Poly is just a type of varnish, so go for it.
Thanks man, I am 14 and my mom wants me take 2 of them before Christmas. Better start now!!!!
Hi Mark, made two of these cutting boards for Christmas gifts, great technique. I do have one question though. Why is it you round over the edges going in the same direction as the bit it?
Thx again, and btw, congrats on the new born child. have fun teaching….lol and learning as well.
It is done to help eliminate excessive tearout. If you take light cuts, it probably isn’t necessary. Thanks Steve!
Hello again, just wanted to add a question. Do you think using a lemon oil is fine for this project ?
Hmmm that’s a good question. Lemon oil is acidic in nature so I’m really not sure how it would work as a cutting board finish. And apparently most commercial lemon oils for furniture don’t really contain lemon oil/juice. Not sure how true that is. Either way, if you want to use an oil, I would recommend sticking with what we know works. mineral oil is pretty universally accepted.
hi
i would just like to say that OMGOSH ! you are my hero. came across you on you tube. you are an ace. i am so passionate about wood and try differant projects but if im honest im really not that good but have used some of your tips and its made one hell of a differance. thank you for your video’s. you are so generous.
thnk you
regards
juliet
My daughter has been asking for an end grain cutting board. During my search I came across your video. Thanks for the detail. I made two boards over the holidays combinin hard maple, walnut and cherry. I’m waiting for my wood supplier, Elegant Wood-Grafton OH, to get me some purpleheart.
My question is what other woods would you recommend for this project and do you have any other patterns?
I dont get too fancy with the woods. I have used maple, jatoba, walnut, birch, purpleheart, and cherry. So thats about all i feel comfortable recommending.
Hi,
I got my product from here:
http://www.bellforestproducts......d-package/
Made especially for Wood Whisperer cutting board fans.
No problems with wood. Excellent quality. I got enough to make my board larger. I purchased the Maple and Purpleheart combo. I think I will try to get Walnut next time. They do email coupons with discounts on products if you sign up for their emails. Recommended.
Hey Mark, good question, is there a way to plan a different pattern ahead of time ? I do not have sketch up.
Thanks
There used to be a program someone made but the download isn’t available anymore. So you just have to plan it out the old fashioned way.
The cutting board designer software is still available at http://www.lastalias.com/cbdesigner/
Last time I checked it was down. But thanks for the heads up. I added the link to the post above.
Hey Marc,
Hello from Ohio. I have two more questions, first, why do you cut the finishing varnish with mineral oil, and what saw blade do you recommend?
Hi Mark. I think you mean mineral spirits right? I dilute with mineral spirits to make it easier for the varnish to be absorbed. As for a blade, I personally like a 40T combination blade. I usually use Forrest and Tenryu.
I was wondering if anyone has use Watco Butcher Block Oil & Finish on a cutting board. I am using bamboo wood and was wondering if it would work. I do want to give this as a gift but my uncle has nut allergies and was wondering if Watco Butcher Block Oil & Finish is safe. Thanks.
http://www.homedepot.ca/produc.....int/980335
Maybe a dumb question, but could you do this same board out of 4/4 stock. I have some hard maple and walnut that I’d like to try this on before trying it with 8/4.
Only if you pre-laminate a couple boards to create stock of equal thickness to what is required in the plan. The thickness of the boards dictates the design.
You can use 4/4 without laminating, you just end up with a different design. I have used the same method with 4/4 material and 10/4 and even 1/4 material. you can get some really interesting designs.
Planning on using OAK and CYPRESS to make some cutting boards this week. Been looking at your pod casts and appreciate all of your effort.
I have several pieces of REDWOOD that had been BEER BARRELS circa 1890s in NEW ORLEANS. 17 foot long stuff five inches thick and nine inches and eleven inches wide. ANY IDEAS? When I cut into it…smells like BEER.
Billy
Wow, almost seems like you’d have to make something related to beer…. a chess/checker board maybe? :) You can enjoy a brew while playing game on it. :)
I have recently gotten back into “trying” to make stuff with wood, mainly scrap wood from work. I watched your cutting board videos……love it. I am making an end grain cutting board, I understand the reasoning on end grain. I have a few friends that like the way the boards looked before I cross cut to expose the end grain. Other than wearing out faster and dulling knives, can a person just repair the cuts and keep up with the maintaining of the cutting board?
Don
Hey Don. Definitely nothing wrong with a long grain cutting board. I would just recommend they use it like any other cutting board. If it is made from durable wood and it is treated properly, it will last for a very long time.
Marc, question on your varnish finising method for these boards. I have a garage shop and it’s cold this time of year in Wisconsin. Do I have any concerns with that type of finish when it’s cold?
Hey Kevin. Oil-based finishes will definitely take a lot longer to cure in colder temps. In general, it is probably best to follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Any way you can bring the boards inside after applying the finish? Even a bathroom with the vent on would be better than the cold garage.
Thanks for taking the time to answer our questions!!! It’s much appreciated. My wife tends to be a bit picky on odor, so I don’t think I will be able to bring it inside. I think I will have to go the route of mineral oil.
Or, another option I have is I could wait to finish it until the spring. Would I have any issues with warping? I could bring it inside until the spring.
Also, on your unfortunate accident with your board, would it have been helped out by having some feed on it keeping it off the ground?
Hard to say if you’ll have warping issues. All I can say is you might. Obviously a finished board is going to have fewer problems than an unfinished one. And yes, little feet would have made all the difference in the world with my board incident.
I have recently completed my first cutting board and considering my skill level, it looks great. My only issue is that I have used Salad Bowl finish and it looked very nice, but after using (heavily, every day) it looked like the finish is getting some bold spot. Therefore, I have switched to Butcher Block oil, and now the maple parts got much darker. I love the look you have on the picture. Is it possible to get it and keep it somehow? I don’t want to get a nice finish and never use my board in order to keep the nice look.
Two of my family members, obviously overestimating my skills, have asked me to make 2 more and I’d like to get some nice finish that would last for a longer time.
Please help.
You definitely don’t want to use that picture as a model. It’s a brand new board and it didn’t stay pretty for long. Look at this picture to see what I’m talking about (ignore the crack): http://www.thewoodwhisperer.co.....ack-sm.jpg
Ultimately, this is a work surface. By nature, it is going to get mangled, discolored, and dark. That’s the sign of a well-used cutting board.
And remember, the varnish (salad bowl finish) is only used to seal the grain from the inside. You don’t want to create a film. Once the board is used for a while, you can refresh the surface with butcher block oil or beeswax. Maybe take it into the shop every year for a quick scrape and clean up. But that’s really all there is to it. If these boards are being used, they won’t stay pretty for long.
Marc-hi from snowy Ohio. I have noticed that I’m getting some cracking on the edge of a cutting board. Several edge pieces of walnut and maple on one board in the middle of the wood, not along the glue line. Any thoughts?
Well, unfortunately there can sometimes be internal pressures in these boards that don’t show themselves for a while. A crack then occurs along the weakest point, which in many cases is not the glueline. You might try forcing some epoxy down there and clamping it together. Might help prevent the crack from getting progressively worse.
Which do you recommend the most, a drum sander or planer?
Can I use a router table?
In general, I think a planer is a better investment and should be purchased before a drum sander. As for a router table, what do you mean? Use it for what exactly?
Hey all,
Just finished my first end grain cutting board (inspired after seeing this video) and it is really my first major wood working project. I made a baby board from the scraps left over from making a larger board (the larger one is still being glued up)
I’m not sure if this was mentioned in any of the comments above, but I had tremendous success smoothing and flattening the top with a card scraper. Makes a finish ready surface right off the bat. I am not being too anal about flatness, after all, it IS a cutting board and will get jacked up soon enough.
Just wanted to throw my two cents in!
Carlo
I like the new site but unfortunately when I sat down to watch this video this morning with my starbucks I got one of those “Sorry this episode is temporarily unavailable” messages. Not ruling out the possibility that my computer may also be at fault I am not terribly distressed. I like your web page. It provides great entertainment and I hope the glitches are not permanent. Hang in there buddy.
Gary
All of our videos are hosted at Blip.TV and our site performance doesn’t really have an impact. The videos are working well for me and I haven’t hear anything from anyone else just yet. Could be a small glitch on Blip’s part. But if it persists, it might be something with the connection.
Where can i purchase the purpleheart and hard maple for cheaper online? no one around me sells it. I would like to make a moveable island for my kitchen, with a butcher top block. I considered using this method of your cutting board to make my butcher top block. Do you recommend this method in the video, or something else? It is my first really big project, and really want it to work out. I just got married recently and want to do it as a gift for my wife.
Bell Forest Products sells kits for this project. Link is in the description above.
Try Bell Forest. They already have pre-cut, right amount, of material needed. I purchased from them Maple and Purpleheart. They have sent me beautiful pieces.
http://www.bellforestproducts......d-package/
how do you go about getting rid of your gluey water?
honestly, most times the water evaporates and then I just throw away the crap in the bottom.
Hey when I’m buying the purple heart and hard maple,approximately how many board feet of each do I need?
About 2 each. Download the PDF plan above for more details on that.
Would it work to to glue a bunch of say 2×2′s together and then cut those to 4″ strips to make an end grain butch block?
thanks
In theory yes. But I’m not sure I would use construction lumber for a cutting board. But the concept is sound.
I just started woodworking and your videos have been excellent and encouraging for me. I was just wondering how you got your purple heart wood to look so purple when you finished it in your pictures but it looks a bit more brownish toned in the video?
Thanks
I really didn’t do anything that wasn’t in the video. Ultimately, the purpleheart changes color over time as well as during the different stages of cutting, sanding and finishing. In an end grain board, the purpleheart will always end up a very deep dark purply brown color, no matter what you do.
Wonderful! I learned so much from this video and about way more than just about cutting boards. Next glue up project is going to be much better, I hope…
This is a great project. My husband and I are planning on building a butcher block island. Could this be scaled up to island sized? Or do you have plans for a butcher block island on your site?
Thanks!
Hi Dawn. I don’t have plans for a countertop but you could certainly expand this design. The pattern might be a little much on the eyes on that scale, but if you like it, there’s no reason you can’t do it.
Thanks! While I do like the pattern on a small scale, you’re right, on a large scale it would be too much. But the construction should be the same just at a larger scale.
I don’t have access to a jointer but have everything else (table saw, planer, sander, router clamps) and the bell forest kit. What can be done to get the boards ready to be planed down to 1 5/8″ since they are currently 1 1 3/4″?
I think the pieces can just be planed down right from the Bell kit. As long as the pieces are straight, and they should be pre-milled, the planer should do nicely.
After the first glue up, I plan on running it through the planer before making the cross cuts. If following your directions, the board should pass through my 12 1/2″ dewalt 734 planer correct?
yup. assuming you have a pretty flat surface, you should be able to take a light pass through the planer.