The rocking horse is a great project for new and experienced woodworkers alike so its perfect for our charity build. The construction is fairly straightforward and requires minimal tools & materials. If you would like to build along, you can download full-size patterns here. Unfortunately, the full official set of plans are no longer free but you can purchase them here. Between the video and the full-size pattern, you can probably estimate the sizes of the smaller parts, making it unnecessary to purchase the plans.
There is a lot of detail in this video! I wanted to make it as approachable as possible for all skill levels so I spend a good deal of time going over proper layout. The “real-time” perspective gives you a much more realistic idea of how a project like this goes together.
What You’ll Need:
- A pre-laminated pine board approximately 3/4″T x 20″W x 72″L, or order a kit from Bell Forest Products.
- Short length of 3/4″ dowel rod
- 3/4″ forstner bit
- Counter-sink bit
- Jigsaw with a fine tooth blade (18-20 TPI)
- Router outfitted with a 1/8″ round-over bit
- Sander
- Screws
- Hand Saw
- Square
- Rasp
- Compass
- French curve
- Construction Adhesive
- Spray Adhesive
How the Charity Works
For each person who completes a rocking horse (one per person), I am donating $1 to Livestrong. We also have numerous corporate and individual sponsors who are matching my donation. With their help and yours, we are trying to reach our goal of $10,000! If you don’t want to build along you can always donate directly. And if you’re interested in becoming a sponsor, please feel free to contact me. 100% of proceeds benefit Livestrong.
When you finish your rocking horse, simply send me a picture and your build will count toward our final tally. All pictures must be submitted by November 14th.
Our Sponsors
Special thanks to our individual sponsors: Erik Gilling, Joseph Buscemi, and Jason Small.
















Your Boy is Growing up so Fast!
can someone just give me the dimensions for the parts that aren’t included? I already spent enough money on the supplies for this thing and I don’t want to have to order plans for a couple of parts.
camoooooooon wood whisperer. just whisper the rest of the plans to me
I saved the plans to this project last year and just got around to making it. However, I found that I had either saved only the template or accidentally deleted from my hard drive the plans and was in the same boat as some of the others. Whatever the case, it didn’t matter because I got creative with it and made my own ears and tail and center support. Now I have an awesome rocking horse that is unique to me, and possibly rocks faster than anyone else’s thanks to the sweet aerodynamic ears and tail that I made. I suggest the same for anybody that needs the last few parts, as it will elevate your work into something to be even more proud of..
Where do you purchase the rest of the plans for the ears and other small parts?
http://www.woodstore.net/quandearoho.html
Yes, would be nice to know the dimensions of the other pieces. This is for charity, after all!
Well it WAS for charity. :)
Hi,
I found the full horse’s body print.
where can i find the print for the rest of the parts? (sattle, tail ears ect.)??
Thanks.
I believe at this point you will need to purchase the plan from Wood’s online store.
Anyone having trouble viewing video now?
Could have been a temporary glitch. Working fine for me.
Started mine on 5th November, using a 8ft x4ft x 18mm ( love the English Imperial / Metric system ) sheet of weather proof plywood, should be enough for two horses, one for the neighbours new born and one for a charity sell on eBay. so far cut out and rounded of with the router, just sand and screw together, did I say “just?”
Marc great tip on using the dust from the shop to keep the extra adhesive from gumming up the process. Great project for everyone to produce. My wife committed mine to an auction at school. No pressure to make it look as professional as yours.
Question about printing out the full plans. I downloaded it free from Woodstore. It’s 16 pages, but none of them is a full page of the horse body for easy enlargement to 24 x 36. I assume I’m missing something . . . .?
Hey David. I think you clicked the wrong link. In the article above, the word “here” is linked after I talk about the full-size patterns. Is that where you’re downloading the plans from? http://www.woodmagazine.com/wo.....e-pattern/
Oops. My reading comprehension skills are worse than my woodworking skills.
Thanks!
Howdy Mark, I am fairly new to actual Wood Working in childrens toys and I am really looking forward to completing this project with my grandchilren (5 and 11 years) for our newest addition (13 months). I actually placed the pattern on a 1/4″ hardboard and after perfecting the template boards I was able to use the template by taping it to the pine board with carpet tape then running the pieces on my router table. This will allow me to make futer horses for other children. Thank you for this project, looking forward to more fun.
Patrick
Hi Mark, I really enjoy the rocking horse vid and I would like to make a suggestion regarding the adhesive used to glue the plan.
The 3M Spray mount adhesive glue (blue color can), I have many times use this adhesive for paper plans and it holds very good, but it can be pilled off later very easily by hand, and with a bit of sanding the surface will easily take care off and very fast. Very easy to use and much less effort, give a try.
Regards
Stelios Stavrinides
Nicosia – Cyprus
That looks great, and it’s timely. My nephew turns 1 in a month. I have a question about the pine panel. I’ve never seen a panel like that at my local Home Depot or Lowes. If I want to make my own, what kind of pine do I look for? I assume I don’t want the construction pine sold at HD?
I would try Lowes first. That’s where I found mine. And you should look for exactly what you see in the video: a plastic wrapped pre-laminated panel. I would imagine if that Lowes across the country carry them.
They tend to be stored vertically with one edge facing out and the label sandwiched between. Usually right next to the handy panels. There’s a good chance you looked right past them a few times. I sure did.
What kind of rasps and files would be best to have on hand to do the cleanup work after the jigsaw? I don’t have a spokeshave, so that’s not an option.
Any aggressive file or cabinet-maker’s rasp should do. This is the one I use: http://www.amazon.com/gp/produ.....B001GT8A8I
I had fun yesterday getting started on the rocking horse. Wiping the pattern down with mineral spirits worked great, it peeled right off. I’ll not be buying another Lowes edge glued pine panel. While I was separating my 2 halves that I had used 2 sided tape, one of the heads snapped off. I didn’t get to do my sanding so I could glue it back on. Next horsey, hard wood.
I’m right there with you Bill. I went with the panel for simplicity and for the sake of following the plan. But next time, I’ll use a good quality hardwood.
I was thinking the ‘appropriate technology’ for making the marks on the board is today considered ‘old technology’. … Think ‘Carbon Paper’. Still available at most good stationery or office supply stores. Keep it filed away in the shop, it can be used over and over again, and really doesn’t age much (mostly depends on how much it is handled).
I love the idea. I have not looked in on your site in a while and always enjoy your work. We have a 16 month old granddaughter (the first) and this will make her very happy. Her mom already has one of your cutting boards. Thanks for doing what you do. Christmas is just around the corner. I’ll have to look through your site and see what people will get this year. Thanks again Mark.
Snowdog
Question – I am always thinking forward in an effort to shorten the construction time simply because I have a short attention span. – Well actually my wife doesn’t give me much shop time.
Anyways you sent time while sanding the bottom not to round over the edge – but later came back with a round over bit. Was that an after thought or why wouldn’t you have just used the round over in place of sanding the edges… ?
Hey Jay. The concern with the sanding is more of an uncontrolled rolling over the edge which results in an edge that is off from 90. But the router bit makes a nice clean 1/8″ roundover. You can certainly use the sander to ease the edge if you want to. But its can be difficult to control the amount of stock you are removing and it will likely be pretty uneven. But it can certainly be done to save time.
Just finished my horse just in time for my Son’s 1st Birthday this weekend. Thanks so much for having a terrific charity project like this. I was unable to get the finish on my horse before the party so I will attempt to disassemble next week and appy a finish. Hope to catch the video on that aspect first. Thanks again
Marc…I sent an invitation to our local guild’s members to join in. A friend & I are each going to build a horse, and my wife is going to raffle our’s off in her office. The proceeds will be donated to the cause in addition to what you & your sponsor’s donate. I wrote an email to the manager of my local Lowes and he offered to provide 4 of the wood panels at no cost in support of the project. Looks like we will be making more than one, and all proceeds will be sent it.
That’s terrific Bill! Thanks for going the extra mile!
c’mon — just knew you were going to say “with soft woods this can get away from you… HOLD YOUR HORSES….” Have a good day.
I have a VERY simple way to transferring the design to wood using items everyone has around the house.
Have the printer print it in reverse on a laser printer with the largest paper stock possible. (or your home laser printer if you have one.) Once printed you can lay the template on the wood and apply heat via an iron to the back. The iron heat will release the toner from the paper and allow it to transfer to the wood. I’ve used this on small items like wooden Christmas ornaments and it works exceptionally well. Once done you can lightly sand any heat discoloration out but if you’re going to paint just finish normally.
note…. clarification, lay the paper print side down. I know you folks are smart enough for that but I just didn’t want anyone yelling at me because they got sticky black toner all over their wife’s iron. The process works really well and no solvents need to be used.
i just noticed that a knot, on the first cutout of the horses body, looked like an eye…
i think you might have put it on the inside though… ;P
I’m picking up my wood for this as soon as my buddy gets here with his truck. Probably wont fit in my little car. I cant wait to see how you paint the horsey face on it. I’m gonna let my little sister do it seeing as it’s going to her baby for when he’s old enough.
Hey Marc, Why not just glue the pattern to a peice of hardboard or 1/8 inch ply. Then use that pattern on your
project. No glue to remove and you get to keep the pattern
that you paid for (usually) if you want to do the project again.
I hope to build a couple of these for various charities in town.
Thanks for organizing these charity builds. Dohnn
Certainly no reason you couldn’t do that. In fact there a number of things you can do to bump up the efficiency and repeatability if you plan on making multiples. But this was presented as a one-off build style for the sake of simplicity. But making a master template of all the parts is a real smart idea.
Marc,
Most likely this is a newbie question…
When I am using the jig saw my blade keeps deflecting from 90 degrees. Is this normal or am I doing something wrong?
Now that the edges of my cut pieces are at a 85 -80 degree angle depend on the blade deflection. Any ideas on how to get them back to 90?
Wayne
Hey Wayne. I used to have an old Craftsman jigsaw that did this too. What a pain in the but. The problem was the saw simply provide NO support for the blade beyond the point of attachment. Much like a bandsaw blade, the cut is much better when the blade has some guide to help keep things perpendicular to the base. So my solution was to buy a new jigsaw. I’m not suggesting that’s what you do, but I honestly don’t know what you can do to prevent it. Now to fix it, you might try carefully sneaking up on the cut while the blade is still straight and working it back to 90. You may also try taking light cuts from the other direction. If you were going clockwise, do the cleanup while going counter clockwise. You can also use files, planes, and spokeshaves to even things out too if need be.
I picked up my laminated pine from Lowes on Monday and have my horsey printed. I cant wait to spend Saturday building it. Since this is for a great cause, I really hope we have a lot of wood workers participate. Marc, I am glad you did this project in memory of Duane.
Marc,
How many companies are matching your donation? How much is being donated for each horse? Such a cool project!
That’s all in the article above Matt. Look up! :)
Actually, it doesn’t say the number of people/businesses who are matching your donation. It says, “We also have numerous corporate and individual sponsors who are matching my donation.” I was just wondering how many dollars are going to be donated per horse? I understand you are donating $1 each. I count 8 logos and 3 individuals, is this correct?
Yep that’s it. All of the current sponsors are listed in the article. Any that come along after the fact will be added to the list.
My kit from bell forest arrived last night – hopefully I can get started today after work!
Hey Marc, just wondering why you didn’t use a pattern bit with your router to make the 2nd body piece. It would have created identical pieces without the need for extra sanding. Always look forward to watching your videos.
Just trying to limit the recommended list of tools and bits. Flush trim bit is definitely the way to go if you have one.
Just waiting for my wood pack to arrive from Bell Forest then I can get started on this build. I’m going to be making two of them, then donating them to the local children’s hospital.
Some great tips and advice here folks. Only wish I had it seven days ago!
Hi Marc
Another fantastic video, and a really great idea all round, congratulations!! I hope to build along to this for my niece, I had better get moving :-)
Many thanks!!
Mark
Hey Marc. For future reference if you put mineral spirits on a rag and wipe it over the entire pattern, the pattern wil peel right off cleanly and easily…I use this method with my scroll saw patterns… and if you are careful…you can set the pattern aside, let it dry and reattach it for your next project, if needed… Just a little FYI
Sharp, clean and clear video. If we were sitting in a chair in front of the workbench we might not have seen this demonstration so clearly as your video shows it.
Wow, thanks very much!
here is a link to using a heat gun to remove patterns. I use this when doing scrollsaw pattern work. It works great when using 3M spray adhesive.
http://www.stevedgood.com/school/video0005.html
you can get a cheap heat gun at harbor freight (about $10) and mine has lasted for a couple of years so far.
Wow!
Three very good technical!
Wes Warren, what is the basic component of “Mineral Spirits”?
Here in my country is not marketed.
Thanks for this tip!
Abra
Hehehe,
Roy,
I would post exactly what you posted.
I use this feature in model airplanes.
Great video Marc!
Abra
Marc I put blue painters tape on wood before adding patterns.
I build wooden gear clocks from plans and one of the things I do is use painters tape or paper tape on the wood before I spray glue my plans to the wood.
There is little or no clean up of that gummy residue. Just have to take care on the sides, so you don’t pull up splinters with pine.
Hi Marc.
If i want to transfer an image to a surface i make a mirror image using a photocopier or laser printer. Stick it (copy side down) to the board using masking tape so it doesn?t move. Very lightly wipe with some paint thinner or turpentine on a rag.
example:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Solvent-Transfers/
Marc,
Try a heat gun to removet the paper template. I think you’ll find this to be MUCH easier and quicker! Just start in a corner and work your way across the template heating as you go.
Sam
That sounds like a good way to go. Now i just need to buy a heat gun. :)
Hi Marc,
If you first put down blue painter’s tape, then glue the pattern to that, afterwards it’s easy to remove with no residue.
Hello Marc,
great project, good course. We will build 14 horses on our school. (grand)- mothers -12 and 2 (grand)-daddy’s. all teachers at the Meergronden in Almere (Netherlands) I dont know if we can make the target but we will donate 10 ? for every horse.
great kid you have there
Jaap
Would it be possible to use e.g. 3M ReMount on the paper?
(So the template can be use a second time and no painful removal of the template from the wood)
Hmm don’t know. I’m not actually familiar with the product.
Yes, you can use the 3M ReMount. I’ve used it before on project.
This is going to make so many children happy this year.
Good on ya.