A few weeks ago, I added the Incra TSIII Fence System to my tablesaw. Unfortunately, my old outfeed table didn’t really work with the new system. So its time to build a new one. This isn’t your average outfeed table though. Its a full-size work table with a full shelf of storage. Perhaps the best part of all is the fact that it can be made with a modest collection of tools and just a few sheets of plywood. No fancy joinery here! This is what I like to call, a “Can Do” project. Enjoy!
For those who are interested, here are some exact dimensions for you:
Long Stretchers: 62″
Short Stretchers: 38″
Overall Dimensions: 65″ L x 39 1/2″ D x 33 3/4″H
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Heavy Duty Lifting Leveler Lipped mounting bracket works to lift and creates greater stability. Each leveler has load-bearing capacity of 600 pounds. Adjust to within 2-1/4” . Minimum installation height is 3″. |
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Heavy Duty Corner Levelers Lift and level even large cabinets or furniture with these heavy duty corner levelers. Stability is assured! |
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Dozuki Dovetail/Flush-Cut Saw Combination dovetail/flush-cut saw features two interchangeable blades and 7-3/4″ L bamboo handle. |
As I mentioned in another post I just purchased my first table saw and now I need to build an outfeed table. This will help. Thanks.
Your instruction was very clear and understandable. Helps novices like me believe that they have what it takes to be a decent wood worker.
Marc,
Nice job on the out feed table. I never saw this episode. I like the simplicity of the out feed table. Do you still have the same out feed table in your new shop or did you build a new one? If you did build a new one did you film its creation?
At my brother’s shop where I am employed, a coworker just slapped an out feed table together with two by fours, a full sheet melamine top, and cedar shims to level it to the table saw. That is what happens when you work with carpenters. They are a little rough on the edges. I am more of a cabinet/ furniture maker, and would like something more refined if only I could find the time. Did you find that the 48″ from the back of the riving knife dimension work to balance a plywood rip or would you give it a little more depth?
Jamie
Nevermind, I just found your new video explaining the new out feed table. But I think I like the idea of folding the table down for my small garage/woodshop I am getting together. Thanks.
Jamie
Hi Jamie. Just putting up a quick link to the newer video for reference: http://www.thewoodwhisperer.co.....eed-table/
As for the depth, the 48″ is a minimum. You can give yourself a few more inches if you want to as it never hurts.
When ripping the leg pieces to width, say you’re going for an “L” shape, then you caution against ripping them both the same width because once you butt them together you’ll end up with one side of the leg longer than the other. Well, that would give you a truer “L” shape than adjusting the width of the rips to get a symmetrically shaped leg piece once assembly is complete! Hahahahahaha I have nothing better to do today than watch old WoodWhisperer videos and find humor in weird places. That and clean up puke from two people sick today in my house.
Im learning so much from your videos! Thank you for keeping them up and available. I’m working my way through them and have a few projects lined up as a result! Quick question, do you remember what screws you used for this? I’m often curious if I’m using the correct screws for the right job…
Thanks again!
Jake
Hey Jake. Most likely I just used standard #8 square drive screws from McFeely’s. I am not too picky about screws.
Marc,
Thanks for putting this out there almost 5 years ago, and for leaving your old podcasts up-it is a valuable service! It worked out perfectly for a combo outfeed/assembly table in my limited space. The storage space I picked up under was an added bonus as well. Not to mention providing me with a nice day in the shop (garage).
Hi Marc, was there a specific reason you stopped using the Incra fence system?
Yup. Me no likey. :) http://www.thewoodwhisperer.co.....ce-system/
hey could i use mdf for your out feed table project??
I think its fine for the top. But I wouldn’t use it for the base. I don’t really like to use MDF for structural components.
THANK YOU!! I’ve been searching for outfeed table ideas and yours was the best. I too just purchased an INCRA system and looking forward to using it. Your podcasts are the best! Keep up the good work.
This is a great review, and just having bought the Incra TS LS system, I can relate to the gap between the outfeed and the rear fence rail. My outfeed is arranged like yours, and is about 1/8″ below the tablesaw surface. Have not had any binding yet.
To those dubious of the INCRA system, I can say that it is extremely accurate, and the fence actually can lock front to rear (not just at the positioner) – it has a thumbscrew at the front and a hex screw at the rear. Typically you only use the front thumbscrew to lock the fence. I cannot manage any deflection even when pushing on the rear of the fence once I lock it.
Wow! This is the first video I watched on your site and I’m impressed. I needed an out-feed table for my saw (an old but very solid Rockwell cabinet style saw my grandfather passed down to me), but was hesitant to add anything permanently to the back because the fence system is in dire need of an upgrade. It is the old pipe rail system which means it is fairly narrow compared to some of the other new systems. (If you have input on a replacement fence besides what you have already written above or stated in the video, please feel free to note it. I am looking at a Biesemeyer, but I am confused about the sizes. Their website shows a 42″, but I’ve seen 30″ and 50″ online. I’m not sure exactly where to measure to.) ANYWAY… I built a 36×48 table due to a smaller shop. I figured it can support normal drop offs with the 48″ side parallel to the table. With a set of wheels mounted on the side of two of the legs on the short end, lifting one end makes it mobile. I can turn the table 90 degrees and move it slightly farther away from the table. This allows me to easily handle ripping full length sheets. I also added an extra cross support under the top to frame out my down draft table dust collection box. Moving on to the top, I made the fixed portion of the in a large U shape by ripping a strip 6″ wide from each long edge on a 15 degree bevel. I cut across the 24″ x 48″ plywood leftover in about the middle (to match my collection box size) at the same angle. I kept the second drop off too. When the U is glued and installed to the table permanently, I slide the last piece into the very large dovetail. It holds the removable piece down flat with the remainder of the top. Most of the time I leave the smooth insert in the table, but when I want to use my downdraft table I pull out the smooth piece and slide in another piece with beveled edges. I have holes drilled in the second piece and an array of rubber bumpers to support the work without marring. Also, the last modification I made from your table is, I left a 2″ overhang all the way around just in case I need to clamp something to one of the edges. A few coats of polymerized tung oil completed the project. Thanks for the simple inspiration.
I’m planning on getting a new (upgrade) table saw, and this project looks like just the thing to compliment it.
Thanks again Marc for your great suggestions, videos, and guidance!
– Andrew
Just found this one – wish I had found it about a year ago. Well it is a good plan for the next one – easier too. Thanks Marc
Mark,
This is a great project and my first. I made the table a little different size, added the side trim pieces you suggested and it worked out quite well!
Next I am going to do a hybrid of your torsion box base with 14 drawers and 4 cabinet doors.
Thanks for the site, it is a great source of information.
Thanks Mike. Glad you are finding the content useful. Good luck with your future projects.
Hi Mark,
What I don’t understand is why use glue, brads and screws together.
screws alone are not enough? Or why should I use also glue in my assemblies?
Thanks,
Kfir
Honestly, I am just a belt and suspenders kind of guy.
Nice project.
One comment re: bottom shelf.
Couldn’t it have been done as one piece by dropping it in place BEFORE the upper middle support was installed?
Sure, but you are probably going to want to have someone there to help out. You can’t just drop it in so you will have to drop it down on an angle and negotiate the top supports. If you undersize it by 1/4″ or so, it would definitely make this easier. If its cut to exact size, its going to be pretty tricky.
Hi Marc,
I’m really enjoying your website…and learning a lot! I have a contractor’s saw, so when I set the blade at an angle, like 45 degrees, the motor comes around on the back and would interfere with any outfeed table. I have a simple table, but I have to unhook it each time I change the saw’s angle. I was wondering if you ever looked into a fix for this…it’s a pain to keep taking the table off of the saw. Thanks,
Steve
Hey Steve. Excellent question. I think you will find a few links to plans here: http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2.....-and-more/
Been a while since I owned a contractor saw so I haven’t had my mind on a good solution. But I think you’ll find some ideas in that article.
I just got a Incra 51″ TS LS with the Wonderfence for x-mas. Why did you swap yours back out? Was it because you had the 32″? Are you going to try the 51″?
Hey Nathan. Here’s a little review I did on the Incra. Should explain my feelings on it. http://www.thewoodwhisperer.co.....ce-system/
Hey Marc. I have a pretty puny portable table saw (face reddening as we type). The outfeed table will be a huge help for even normal size jobs let alone plywood. However, I am experiencing problems with the infeed side. There is very little room between the front edge of the table and the blade which makes it difficult to use the miter gauge with any kind of backing board or jigs. ANy suggestions how to handle this problem?
Don’t sweat it Dan. I am fortunate to have a great tablesaw in the shop. But by no means is a tablesaw like that a requirement for building fine furniture. Its what comes out of the shop that counts, not what goes in it. :)
As for the miter gauge, there’s a pretty easy fix. With the table in its final position, take a straight edge and draw a line that is parallel with the edges of the miter slot. Then use a router with the straight edge clamped in place to create a little channel, just a bit wider than the miter slot itself. That will provide the relief you need for your miter bar. You’ll actually see this on many folks outfeed table designs. On mine, the table was far enough away that the miter gauge never hit it. Good luck!