Shaping The Top
The top of the Bench/Stool features a nice deep curve. This not only looks cool, but adds a lot of additional comfort when sitting. I scribe the shape onto both sides of the top piece using my template. Since the top is supposed to be symmetrical on both sides, I prefer to shape only one side of my template. I then flip it over to scribe the profile on the other side. This way there is no possibility of error and the top should be exactly the same on both sides. I also decided to include a late-game change by introducing a slight end grain curve on each end of the top. The curves are all cut at the bandsaw and refined back at the workbench using sanders, scrapers, rasps, and the router.
The video contains numerous tips and tricks for accurate strategic shaping of parts using various tools, including this very important one: when milling symmetrical or identical parts, don’t go more than one or two steps before repeating those same steps on the other parts. Shaping is an evolving process, meaning that you make decisions and adapt as you work toward your ultimate goal. So if you go too far on one piece without catching the others up, you might find it very difficult to make your parts identical.
Finalizing the Legs
For the most part, the legs are already shaped. But we still need to do some roundovers and blending. I use a router to roundover where possible, but the rasp does everything else.
First Glueup
It might seem like we’re going out of sequence here, but the next step is to glue the legs to the top. We’ll cut the center support to fit AFTER the glueup. Before adding any glue, I place a mark on the inside surface of each leg 3 3/4″ down from the inside shoulder. This mark will help use locate our center support later.
When doing this glueup, the angle of the legs presents some serious clamping issues. My joint was so snug that I did something I normally would never do and used no clamps at all. As long as the shoulder is fully seated and there are no visible gaps, I see no major issues with this. But if you can manage to get a couple clamps on there without changing the angle of the legs, you will be better off.
The Center Support
With the glueup dry, we can now cut the center support. With the stool on its side, I line up the top of my center support blank with the lines that were drawn on the inside faces of the legs. I then use a pencil to mark the leg angles. They should be 75 (aka 15) degrees, but it is always good to get the measurements from the actual piece. Relative dimensioning in action baby!
I cut the center support to size at the miter saw and test the fit. When the blank drops down between the legs with no gaps and the top of the blank lines up with our marks, its time to move on to the shaping.
Using my template, I scribe the top and bottom curves onto the center support and proceed with the shaping process: bandsaw, spindle sander, router and rasps.
Center Support Installation
The center support to leg joint will be reinforced with dowels, but it first needs to be glued into place. Since this is an end grain to long grain butt joint, I like to use epoxy for as much strength as possible. Light clamping locks the support in place while the glue dries.
The dowels are simple enough to install, but they do require precise drilling. If you go off course, you’ll punch right through the center support. I locate my drilling points at 3 3/4″ and 4 1/2″ from the underside of the top. The goal is to drill a 1 1/2″ deep hole, perpendicular to the leg face. Because the leg sits at an angle, that means the drill bit is traveling through the center support at an angle. So getting these locations, depths, and angles correct is really important for good results. You can use whatever dowel size you like but I went with 1/4″.
If you really want to step things up a bit, consider using brass dowel stock like I did for my Bubinga stool. Wood dowels are easy enough to get flush to the surface by using a flush trim saw and a sander, but brass requires a little more work. I use a file to get things mostly flush before moving to my sander.
Leveling the Legs
It’s almost inevitable that the stool will wobble a bit. So we need to make sure all four contact points are touching the surface at the same time. I like to use a trick I learned from William Ng that is super simple and quick. I tape a piece of sandpaper to the workbench and simply drag the stool over the paper. I put a little extra downward pressure on the offending part of the leg just to help work it down faster. I do this process on both legs using a consistent number of strokes. Unless the wobble is severe, this should take care of it fairly quickly without going too far.
The only thing left to do now is prepare for finishing. The entire piece is sanded thoroughly with 180 grit. Now is the time to view the piece from as many angles as possible just to make sure we’re completely happy with the shape. The next step is finishing!
A little late to the party here but I did have a question with regards to using water to highlight issues while doing the finishing touches.
Would it not be better to use mineral spirits as to not raise the grain? Or are you purposely raising the grain due to eventually using a water based finish?
Even with an oil-based finish, I sometimes like to raise the grain. Especially on a small piece like this. So using water not only highlights flaws, but gives me a nice surface on which to do my final high grit sanding. The raised grain does a great job of letting you know where you’ve sanded and where you haven’t, which is always a little tricky in the higher grits. So I occasionally do this even for an oil-based finish.
Ah indeed, great points, thanks as always for your great content!
Hey Mark,
I realy liked this projects. With the insperation it gave
me I made my own similar project (not finished yet…)
Thanks a lot!
Elhanan (Israel)
Hey I have a few chisels that I try to use to cut out wood, but how do you get yours do sharp? They cut like a hot knife through butter.
What if you’d wanted to be certain that curve you put on the ends was symmetrical? How would you have made that line (looks around to the nearest bucket)?
What type of rasp do you use? Brand and cut?
I have two Nicholson’s 49 and 50 and the little guy is an Auriou rasp. Honestly I don’t recall the specific model.
I’ve seen and heard Schwarz raving about Auriou’s in several places. Hand-made beauties. Lie-Nielsen has neat video of them being made. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sfQJIJuIbCs.
And here’s a Schwarz link with rasp recommendations. It was helpful to me, even though Auriou’s are more of a wishlist item for myself, it still was good advice for what type of rasps to start with:
http://www.popularwoodworking......uperpowers
Thanks, Ben that was very helpful.
Marc, I’m only saying this here because I couldn’t think of another way you to get this word to you (and let other people hear it at the same time) but could your next video be a WoodWhisperer version of http://squattypotty.com/proper-toilet-posture/ because a happy colon:happy life. I’m sorry but I was just glancing at the sidebar advertisements as I was scrolling down and I have to say it intrigued me so much that I watched the video in the link and might actually buy one. They do have a nice bamboo one, but I figure you could make this stool (ha!) with some figured maple or maybe something more exotic, like bubinga. I’m sorry, I’m not making fun, I just found this hilarious, especially because they’re so serious! Okay, back to serious woodworking.
Oh I can hear the jokes now: “TWW has gone to the sh&$#er!” lol
Nice stool.
Great points – thanks.
As always when watching your videos it seems that time stands still. And I guess your clock agrees.
Is there a reason you didn’t just slightly overdrive the brass dowels (using a nail setter or another piece of brass dowel) and sand the wood down to match?
Primarily because the legs were already at their finished shape and dimension. And no matter what you do, you will always have to flatten the head of the brass dowel. It will never be perfect enough to simply bring the wood down to that level. So I find it much easier and accurate to leave the brass proud and file/sand it flush with the surface.
I love the attention you pay to the continuity of the piece. While it’s a small piece, it flows very well. I’m looking forward to seeing finish, Nicole and “the boy”.
Thanks Marc, I did not know you were a fine connoisseur of vintage epoxies! So your 2009 is more robust and has the tannins of a vintage epoxy, while mine is just light and fruity with the hint of a pinot. Sheesh, I’ll never catch up!
I love the explanation of how to incorporate curves into a piece. I have shied away from using them because of difficulty in measuring, good stucff, but the best part was the end, a happy tickled baby!! Great work Marc :-)
Those little brass headed hammer/mallets you use, are those Tite-Hammers? If not, what brand are they? Also, what weight heads do you find you use the most? Thanks!
Hey Ben. They are indeed Tite-Hammers. I believe i have sizes 3 and 4. Frankly, I find myself using the two with the shorter handles the most. I use more or less weight depending on the task and how much force I want. But I find the small handle fits nicely in hand and gives me lots of control. The big handle has so much more momentum than I ever need, so it doesn’t get used as much.
Am I the only one who hears Benny Hill music during the high speed video of the rasp?
Thanks Mark, I missed that. I have some of their product, but your epoxy is a dark color in the video, mine is clear. Am I missing something?
Mine is a fine aged epoxy from 2009. :) Actually, the fast set activator tends to be darker and gets darker with time. I’ve had mine for a while so it is a nice caramel color. The slow activator is clear and stays clear. So it just depends on what you have and when you bought it.
Great video as usual Marc! I also look forward to the Finish Video! Nice job. I am going to build mine soon!
Great project and a great idea for Christmas presents for all the children, grandchildren, great grandchildren…well, you get the idea. I love the brass dowels on bubinga. Can you tell me what epoxy you use? Great video ! I wish I could speed up my rasp work like that!
Thanks very much Joe. The epoxy I use is West System epoxy. You’ll find the link in the sidebar in the writeup above under Products Used.
Hi there
Looking on all of the edge curving that you’ve done I was thinking that Metabo’s Inox system could actually be in a big help. I know that it’s a bit off traditional filing and hand sculpting but if you are looking for a batch work this could become handy. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R2xWTVult6s
All the best
Cheers
I actually have quite a few comparable tools like my grinder and one of Festool’s specialty sanders. But for this project, I needed things that were slower simply because I was experimenting a bit. The grinder-style tools are great for getting where you need to go in a hurry and as you mentioned, batching out. But when I’m experimenting, I use slower tools intentionally to allow me some room for error.
You could have used the curve cut off from the top clamped back in place to support the router for the end grain round over.
Just a thought.
Only problem with that is the fact that the kerf removes a significant amount of stock. enough to make the curved pieces sit off-level. So it might help a little, but it would need some propping up and possibly some spacers to use it as a reference surface. For such a quick cut, I figured I’d just use what was there and get it done quickly.
Nice video Marc. I always appreciate the level of detail you include in these. Also, that new guitar music is sweet.
This is the the symphony and creativity of the gadget station all over again! Bravo Marc!! Can’t wait for the finish video!!
Thanks dude. The finishing video is a fun one. Nicole and Mateo both make an appearance.