3 – Refinishing (Pt. 6)

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Finally!!! The last part of the refinishing series is here!! Seems like I’ve been wearing the same shirt for weeks now. In this video, I give a brief overview of my spray finishing techniques as well as provide a few tricks of the trade.

Category: Finishing


  1. November 22, 2006


    I’ve been enjoying your movies, but the last one was more waffling than anything else, it didn’t really show anything.

    Keep up the good work, but more instruction and less waffle would be better.

  2. Gidday MArc

    I have looked foward to your show over the past few weeks and have been really enjoying it. WELL DONE!!!

    I now consider myself a fan of your show!!! Keep focused on your vision & imparting great information for all of us keen to learn.

    Thank you for being a part of keeping the craft well and truely alive!!!

    Looking foward to more from the WoodWhisperer

    Regards Lou :-)

  3. Gui (http://) August 22, 2007

    Great stuff! I have many videos to watch before I catch up with all of them, but just wanted to post a note and congratulate you on your work. Thanks for this stuff.

  4. Ray Cashman December 12, 2007

    Wow! Where have I been. Goggled “edge tape” and found your site. I intend to go through your entire archive list. Thanks for your (and your wife’s) efforts. Ray

  5. Bryan July 18, 2009

    You are awesome. You should have a show on cable. I would definitely watch. Keep up the good work!

  6. jdog November 21, 2009

    Do you use catalyzed lacquer? Pre or post-catalyzed? also what brand do you use and where do you get it? What’s the difference between a 3 and 4 stage hvlp turbine and what does a stage mean?

      thewoodwhisperer November 21, 2009

      I used Sherwin Williams Pre-Cat CAB Acrylic for that project. And the only real difference between 3 and 4-stage is the power level (air flow). I am not too familiar with the construction of the motor and fan assemblies myself so what 3 and 4 mean in terms of the motor, I couldn’t really tell you.

  7. Nelson April 16, 2010

    Man.. I was waiting for you to show off how easily the table leaf mechanism worked! After the two person struggle in the first vid.. lol

    • Ron May 2, 2011

      Ha! I was waiting for the climactic leaf opening at the end, and then: nada! I feel like I have blue-eyes now, what a tease! Seriously, great vids, I’m looking forward to going through the rest. Your mixture of entertainment and information is great and the fact that you can call ‘em as you see ‘em makes this way better than any TV show.

    • JimsPlace December 31, 2011

      So was I! What I expected to see was Marc going flying accross the screen with Nicole looking at him arms crossed and head cocked looking on in disbelief.

  8. William Chaverri April 21, 2010

    Again, all refinish watched, great job, learn a lot, thanks.

  9. Simon May 9, 2010

    Hi Marc!! Great videos, you don’t know how much I’m learning. Thanks. I’m also improving my English vocabulary…anyway: I had never heard about SHELLAC (I’m new in woodworking and I didn’t know the word), I´ve been searching around and I’ve found out that is really good for finishing, specially for using it with baby’s toys:
    My question is: Why isn’t it more used and known? and is it very shiny? As much as varnish? Can’t it be used for the whole table? Why is lacquer better?

    Thanks a lot.

      thewoodwhisperer May 9, 2010

      Hey Simon. There are many woodworkers who use shellac as their primary finish. Its an old finish, that has generally fallen out of favor amongst woodworkers simply because of the availability of more durable varieties of varnish. Varnish is generally more forgiving and beginner-friendly to apply. But in my world, shellac is an incredibly useful finish although I am guilty of never using it as a final topcoat. I just always preferred lacquers and varnishes.

      Yes it is very shiny and can be buffed to a super gloss, which you will see referred to as a French Polish. So in that way, it can be even “shinier” than varnish.

      It can indeed be used on an entire table, but you do want to be sure this table won’t see a lot of spills and alcohol. Obviously, alcohol will dissolve the finish.

      Lacquer, depending on which type you use, may not necessarily be better. But the type of lacquer I use (pre-catalyzed CAB acrylic), is simply more durable.

  10. Thomas Tieffenbacher/Doc Savage 45 July 4, 2010


    Enjoyed the refinishing video with your project. would like to see you working on a veneered piece? I am looking forward to the Webinar with Charles Neil. Like your approach. who’s the techno geek who keeps the site going. Have a afamily heirloom that a client wants redone. Not quite the quality of material as in the mahogany table, but it is important to this family. got a few different things to look at when I do this. You aren’t originally from Massachusetts are you. Heard a little “Norm” in your discussions LOL.

      thewoodwhisperer July 4, 2010

      Hey Thomas. Veneers can be a little tricky since you have a major risk of either burning through the veneer or causing it to life. Hopefully you can just scrape the finish off and give it a light sanding and call it done. But each piece tends to play by its own rules. You never quite know what you are going to encounter until you get in there.

      Glad you are looking forward to the Charles Neil collaboration. We are very excited about it too!

      And believe it or not, I am the techno-geek who keeps the show running. From the site, the blog posts, the filming, the editing….I do it all.

      And I am actually from NJ, so you might hear a little of that accent once in a while. :)

  11. Cliff Bramlett August 8, 2010

    Wow, another geek turned woodjock, and so successful at it too! I worked in Dell’s engineering dept for years, then web consulting, and now I’m effectively a tinker into robotic and… woodwork!? Is this becoming a trend?

    Amazing results with the refinishing work. I think I would actually call it more of a rebuilding job. It looks like a new piece!

  12. just rekindled my interest in wood working a few months ago and this set of videos made it possible for me to remove a marred finish from my living room end table that had driven my wife crazy. I corrected it and now I am King of the castle again. (as long as I keep dust and noise from my shop out of the house)
    Really enjoyed the web site and have been working my way through the podcast starting at number one
    Can’t wait for the new ones

  13. stephen September 20, 2010

    Did you apply a stain after filling the pores and resanding?
    If the legs were also mahogany would you need to fill the pores there also?


      If I recall correctly on this one, I didn’t put any stain on the top at all.

      And the legs are really optional. But if I was going for a high gloss finish, I would also do a pore fill on the legs.

  14. Cowboy59 October 19, 2010

    Thanks for the tips Mark

  15. Bryan V June 30, 2011

    I finished watching this series of pod-casts a little while ago, i have some old furniture that has been handed down from my mom and her parents, it is good to know that it is possible to refinish them. Maybe when i get some free time, i can work on refinishing one drawer (front only, of course) at a time.

    I really appreciate the effort you put into the videos for us.

  16. John W December 8, 2012

    Great series and Great Videos all around. I am pretty new to wood working and you inspire me to do more. Thanks for you time and effort

  17. Dave Kirkeby December 30, 2012

    The wood filler discussion was interesting to me. I use Bondo for a variety of repair jobs on an old apartment building we own, particularly for repairing the wood windows. I wondered right away about what the difference between Bondo and the wood filler that Marc used was and I got a much appreciated answer right away.

    One thing about Bondo is that the home centers sometimes carry two products one that is called an all purpose filler and one that is called an automotive filler. I wrote to the Bondo company and asked about the difference. The only difference between the two products is that the color in the automotive product is dyed red and the catalyst in the general purpose product is white. The red dye makes it much easier to see when the Bondo is thoroughly mixed and I generally buy that. A disadvantage of the red catalyst is that the Bondo can be a little difficult to cover with white paint. I buy a separate tube of white catalyst for use in those kind of situations.

    I wouldn’t say that Bondo is quite perfect for my purposes, but it works pretty well. Sometimes it detaches from the wood, particularly when it has been applied thinly and it is in an area exposed to bright sunlight. The very short working time, particularly on a hot day, can be a bit of a challenge also.

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