Why Bother?
The lumber rack is the unsung hero of the woodworking shop. Its responsible for holding our raw materials safely, securely, and in an organized fashion until we’re ready to use them.
Let’s face it: we are all wood hoarders when it comes down to it and most of us over-buy lumber intentionally. So if you plan on amassing anything that can be called a wood “collection” you need a sturdy place to store it all.
How it’s Made
This lumber rack is made entire from 2×4 lumber and 3/4″ shop grade plywood. The uprights are bolted to the wall studs and the bracket supports are screwed to the vertical uprights. The sheetgoods and cut-off storage is tucked away underneath the lumber rack and swings out on casters for easy loading. In fact, I have mine positioned right by the front door so all I need to do is back up my truck and slide the sheets right in.
The Design
The design is very adaptable and can be customized to fit your personal preferences and shop needs. The inspiration for this project came from two folks: my buddy Aaron Marshall and Chet from the forum. Oddly enough, when researching for this build, the most useful and promising information came from our own forum. Gotta love when that happens! If you decide to build this rack or some variation of it, send me some pictures or post them in the Wood Talk Online Forum!
Downloads
Right Click to Download the PDF Plan
Right Click to Download the SketchUp File
Marc:
Now that you’re in your new shop, did you move this lumber rack to it or did you do something else? If you did something else, what did you do?
Thanks
Tony
I actually left the lumber rack in place for the new owner. In my current shop, I decided to go with some metal garage shelving. It’s the closetmade stuff rated as Heavy Duty, from Lowes. The parts can be pricey, but I already had a bunch of the stuff laying around from general garage storage and decided to recycle it for the lumber rack.
Excellent!
The thing with storage is that is hard to find space for it, this is a great option.
Also, thank you for putting a PDF version of the plan for us Sketchup challenged individuals.
My wife and I really appreciate your videos…thanks for sharing the knowledge.
I like the desinge and looks of your rack. Do you have a Materials List for this project? Also what is a Sketch Up file and why would you want one?
I want to know what is the most weight, or board feet of, let’s say oak that you have put on a shelf. I have eight boards of oak that I inherited that are 13″ x 2″ x 13′. They are approx 80 lbs. each. I think that they would be too much for this design unless you have done the same or more I don’t want to try it.
Hey Richard. I honestly don’t know the answer to your question. I put quite a few boards on my rack and it held up quite well with no sagging. I’m sure the unit has a weight limit but I have no idea what that is. But when the weight is distributed over numerous arms, you’d be surprised at how much a design like this can handle. But for safety and liability reasons, I can’t give you any solid guarantees.
I have been considering and designing a lot of different systems for my shop/garage and I think I am going to go with your design.
One question I have is; since your sheet bin does not allow for shelving to be in its height area why do you run the verticals all the way down (other than to attach the bin hinges to) ? Why did you not run your ledger board higher and just run the right vertical all the way for the hinge attachment?
Honestly, this was just a quick and dirty design. You have probably already given it more thought that I did. So I have no doubt you might be able to identify some simple structural or functional improvements.
I’m thinking about useing this basic design but modifying it to attach to the angle of a cathadril ceiling. I’m in a small 17 x 11 shop and I’ve already devoted the walls to tool storage, but I think that ceiling might lend itself well to lumber storage. Any ideas on how the plans should be modified to handle the angle?
The nice thing about horizontal is that you can stack smaller cutoffs.
I notice that everyone seems to like their stud stock laying flat on a number of tiers or levels on wall supports. Assuming the vertical space is available, is there a good reason not to make a set of “bins” open on one side and stand all the studs on end instead? Same goes for sheet stock. Standing sheet stock on end uses half the space (4 ft vs 8 ft). I would also add that I think getting a given sheet out of the rack is a lot easier if they are standing vertical, because the desired sheet can be tipped out instead of pulled out. This should take up WAY less space in the shop, and greatly reduce the pain caused by Murphy Law which dictates that we always need to get at the bottom piece……
I noted w interest Jeff Wenzel’s idea of using the space between wall studs. My thought would be to extend this concept with bars or plywood plates sticking out into the room from the wall studs to make deeper “bins”. Perhaps as much as 2 or even 3 ft deep. The bars or plates could have holes along their length to make the bin size adjustable by simply moving the bungie cord location.
Without the benefit of other expertise and advice, the only concerns I can anticipate relate to the studs and sheets taking a bend set over time, and the stability of vertical stacking. If all the stock is stood straight up as opposed to leaning in the bins, both concerns are reduced. I would also think that permanently attaching the rack to the walls instead of putting the rack on rollers would eliminate the stability concern.
Am I missing anything?
I actually have my sheetgoods rack vertical in the new shop. I think it may just come down to personal preference. But if you can get it set up vertically and you don’t mind working with the material that way, I can’t see anything wrong with it at all.
Nobody seems to think that warping is an issue with wood standing on end, and I am pretty convinced that this is the most space efficient way to store a larger quantity of lumber. So I think I will make a full 4×8 rolling rack which should be big enough to be stable. I’ll probably make 2 slots 1 ft wide by 4 ft deep for plywood and paneling standing on end, and 2 slots 2 ft wide x 4 ft deep – one for 2x4s on end and one for wider planks and boards on end. Then I’ll make one 2×2 bin and two 1 x 2 bins for assorted other lumber and hardwood on one end and some smaller 4 ft wide horizontal shelves at the other end for stacking smaller pieces per AJ’s suggestion above. Since my rolling cart can be moved, perhaps I can integrate a panel cutting station on the rear. It might be wise to make the back wall and dividers about 6 ft high to support the standing lumber or perhaps add some adjustable jambs within a 4 ft high cart – in both cases to ensure that everything stands perfectly vertical and thereby stop the lumber from taking a bend and more importantly to keep the whole thing from falling over if the contained lumber leans too much.
The alternative would be a 3 x 8 Fixed Rack against the wall with no panel cutting station.
Frankly, I think that a 4 x 8 area of wood standing on end is a LOT of lumber. I have this image in my head of a 6 ft diameter section of a tree trunk that is 8 ft high standing in the corner of my shop. Obviously, the wheels and rack structure required to support that huge tree trunk will have to be VERY substantial. Since one can never have too much lumber, it will probably be wise to start looking now for the materials needed to make an outside lean-to for storing more stock.
Thanks all!
Would you recommend a 5/16 or a 3/8 for the Lag Screws. I will be building this system with the cart in the next couple of weeks and need to order hardware ahead of time. HD too expensive. I have not watched the Video so if it is mentioned on there then my apologies.
I think either size would work.
By the way, I am using counterbored 6″ lag screws to attach the 2 x 4 verticals to the wall studs. Also I have a bunch of 1/2″ ply from another project and I am making the support arms with that ply instead of getting some more 3/4″ ply. Given the design of the arms, I can’t imagine overstressing a couple 1/2″ pieces. That is a full inch of plywood on its edge which is 6″ wide. Should be able to support a passing locomotive. Also I used 2 1/2″ deck screws to put the arms together and 3″ x 1/4″ carriage bolts to hold the arms to the verticals.
Nice design. My modification is to separate the sheet goods rack and put it on 4 casters. This allows me to accomodate more hardwood in the wall rack, which has levels right down to the floor (actually 6″ above the floor). I get rough hardwood by the 100 ft. lots, so I need the storage. When it is finished I will send a photo of the rack with some wood on it.
Now I’m confused…
When are you supposed to let your boards dry, before use – and when are you supposed to use them before they dry & warp?
Now I think I’m the one who’s confused. :) Your boards should probably be dry before you even get them, either air or kiln dried. Once in your shop, you can let them acclimate for a few weeks before using them, but that isn’t always necessary.
Hi Marc,
I Love your Podcasts! I want to build such a rack myself. Could I also use OSB instead of plywood?
Greetings,
Robert
Probably. It isn’t my favorite material to work with though. And I can’t really comment on any strength issues it may present. I just don’t work with the stuff very often.
I am going to finish/expand my rack this weekend and build the sheet goods/shorts cart. I had a much smaller version (2 verticals and 2 shelves) at my other house and now I will be adding another vertical member and 3 shelf supports. Is the 30″ high (plus the caster height) sheet goods cart necessary though? I imagine I could go with a 25″ high cart (plus the caster height) and save in material cost without losing any support other than how much the sheet goods lean. Was there a specific reason for the 30″ cart in terms of plywood warping?
Not really. Just sounded like a good number to me. :) I think you’ll be fine with your measurements.
HI Mark,
I am just finishing a new workshop/ garage (43′ x 24 with the shop taking 24′ x 24′).
I have purchased the material for your lumber rack plan and will start building this weekend. I have gone over you plan design thoroughly and it seems to me that your rack design is stronger than most interior wall construction and if there is any weakness it would probably be in the wall studs. Your design is great and the only improvent I can concieve of is routing round overs on panels of the cart so as not to cause spintering the edges over time (also a little easier on you hands when trying to get to short stock. Thanks for the video and the plan,
Dan Campbell
Hey Marc – I just installed your version of the lumber rack on my wall with both Spax and several lag bolts into studs. I noticed after screwing in the veritcal supports that there is some side to side play of the vertical supports and was wondering if this is normal/ok. Thanks very much for any info – Mike
Perhaps a little. But the lag bolts should take most of that away. I wouldn’t expect them to be absolutely rigid, but there should be securely locked into the wall.
Hmm, I have a question. I am currently replicating some form of this in my shop and I am making some modifications.
I am unclear why you ran the 2×4′s down behind the sheet goods rack? with mine I am mounting it to the wall so it will be able to move in almost flus with the wall. I have a smaller shop, floorspace is precious. So is there a reason you ran the 2×4′s all the way down instead of putting the bracer board above the sheet goods rack?
In my case, the concrete footer juts out a few inches. Additionally, I needed something sturdy on which to attach my hinges. So it just made sense for me to continue the 2×4′s all the way down. If your situation doesn’t require that, you can certainly re-gain a few inches of space by stopping them just above the sheetgoods cart.
Ahh, thanks. I was wondering if I was missing something structurally that would make it a bad idea.
Great vid btw, nice choices in editing to show the good details without having to make me watch you cut 100 hunks of ply :)
Great looking project…
I’m currently building an exercise room in my garage… was wondering about using the partition wall for the rack project. (10′ high trussed ceiling)
http://s146.photobucket.com/al.....odworking/
Do you see any problems doing this?
Seems like it would be OK to me, but I’m no structural engineer.
All that lumber was salvaged from trees removed from this property to build our house.
ok Marc, I uploaded somewhere else… Maybe you can see these.
the cleat http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp.....8;cat=1429
the wall http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp.....8;cat=1429
The reason:
Kiln dried red oak http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp.....8;cat=1429
Air dried red oak http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp.....8;cat=1429
Very cool Love the modifications and the reason for it! :) Enjoy that stash!
I used your basic design, but with a slight modification in size. My plywood sides were cut 15 7/8 x 6 and the 2x4s were cut 15 7/8. That allowed me to get 48 pieces of plywood from one sheet and 24 pieces from 4 2x4x96. That’s 24 shelf brackets with practically no waste.
The 2×4 extends past the end of the plywood by 3 1/2 inches.
I would post a picture, but…
But you don’t have a link? :)
Thanks for the excellent design. I will be constructing one of these (with slight modifications, of course) for my brand new shop.
Have you looked into the weight-carrying capability of the cantilevered arms? I made a similar rack years ago and had over 100 bd. ft. on each level. This one should do as well or better.
Well if by “looked into” you mean put lots of wood on them, I sure have. :) I just disassembled the unit for the shop move and there were no signs of wear or sagging at all. So I’m pretty confident in the design at this point.
Marc, et al – Question – you mention you like to make the vertical supports one piece. The plan I followed a couple years ago had multiple pieces joined by plywood on the outside. The pieces were separated by 3 1/2″ (2×4) to create a mortise that you slide the lumber rack arm into. It was supposed to fit tight, but kept it level by the strength of the mortise. I’m getting ready to move mine, and I see that a couple arms’ mortise wasn’t quite tight enough to hold the arm perfectly. I’m looking to compare the strength of the two designs. Do you have any thoughts?
I think I need to see a picture to fully understand your description. Do you have a link handy?
Tried to reply once, doesn’t seem to have shown up… Don’t know how I messed up on something so simple! ;-)
Try this…
http://i1169.photobucket.com/a.....G_1202.jpg
I see now. Hard for me to say which would ultimately stronger. I can say when i disassembled my rack for the move, I was pleasantly surprised to see no visible evidence of sagging or damage. So I am pretty confident in the design shown here.
I already built my lumber rack using a slightly different design, but more or less the same. Yours is better, however.
Also, I have to echo what someone above said; Is it abnormal to be this excited about a plywood cart? It’s an amazing design, and I can’t wait to build today.
I, too, make use of the shop grade plywood for many projects. I primarily build custom frames for upholstered furniture, so the rigidity of that plywood vs yellow pine is perfect for what I do without the added cost of oak ply, which is totally unnecessary. I do, however, occasionally buy blondewood plywood at Lowes for these projects. Its about the same price as my local hardwood dealers shop grade ply and it never warps on me even after sitting for a few weeks.
Again, thanks so much for the plans and the perfect design. Can’t wait to get that sucker into commission.
You have a code violation …
You are missing a knock out in your electrical box. You might want to fix that real soon be. Other then that..
I love your lumber storage rack!
Thanks for the design Mark! My attempt at building this rack came out great. Very efficient use of space.
http://i.imgur.com/SJFbm.jpg
I just finished building the lumber rack portion of this video. I’m worried about how much weight this thing will hold. I used the same plans as Marc used with one small change — my shelves are only sixteen inches instead of his 21 (or whatever it was). Otherwise, i followed the plan, using the same screws and also added lag bolts. I started loading up the wood and was getting scared about how much I was putting up there. I never even put all I had. I don’t really have a sense of how much the wood weighs, but I’m guessing there’s at least 250 pounds up there (the top shelf is nearly all hard maple). Can anybody calm my fears?
Here’s a page with pictures of it http://watchmemake.com/kadoove.....umber-rack
Thanks
Well, I’m not sure I can calm your fears but I can say I have at least that much weight on mine and all is well. No sagging or evidence of problems yet. Do you actually see any visible evidence that something is wrong?
No evidence that something’s wrong. I just wonder about how much weight it can comfortably hold. So far, so good. I even added more up there.
Those shelf brackets are good for at least a 100 pounds. And with 6 of them and 2 levels, You could put 1200 pounds up there. You would have a hard time fitting enough wood up there to stress the shelves.
I made mine out of 2×2′s, but only 12″ long and using 1/4″ plywood. I can hang off of any of the spokes (~180 lbs). You’re fine as you’ve spread the weight across many units, and if you used 3/4″ plywood like in the video, You’d pull the stud out before you lost the shelf.
http://i29.photobucket.com/alb.....190942.jpg
Oh that’s super sexy.
I’m makin’ it.
I was going to build this, but ended up getting over 80 feet of 2×4 steel tubing 3/16in think for 10 cents a pound(only $70).(cheaper than the wood it would cost to build it). I figure if I build this out of steel, it will last forever, and will be the last I’ll ever have to build. My only thoughts are whether you like the hinge idea, or do you think it would work equally well with it being on 4 castor wheels instead? I like the idea of moving it to other areas of my shop when stacking wood(from the trailer etc.) What are your thoughts?
Personally I like the hinge. I really have no need to move it around. Also, when pushing in a big sheet of ply, it’s nice to have one side completely secured.
Now that you have been using the plywood storage for awhile can you tell us how it is working for you. I often find that after a few months working with a jig or something like your pivoting rack that the project will show me an area that needs improved. I am curious as to how well it pivots when fully loaded and carrying a lot of weight.
To be honest Joe, I haven’t used it much. I spent the entire summer working on my Adirondack chair and I am now finishing up some shop projects. Now that the shop projects are winding down, I’ll have to put some of the excess plywood away and that will be when I have to move the rack again. But so far the only issue is that I’m lazy and I tend to lean things up against the rack instead of putting things IN the rack, lol.
Great video, I’ll be building one of these soon in my garage… but that’ll mean I’m officially hooked on wood working and I’ll have to permanently eject one of my cars from the garage. I think the Honda needs to get more fresh air anyway.
Regarding “Racking my Brain” One word “Awesome” I’m very impressed. Just joined this forum, and have been pleasantly pleased that my expectations were more than satisfied. In watching the podcast, I had a couple suggestions that have already been addressed by others, but if I can offer just a small tweak may I suggest, when cutting out the support outer pieces that attach to the vertical 2×4′s. I noticed that you cut each one separately. I would have cut two parallel cuts, then made the angle cut between the two ends. Then you would cut off the flat part represented by the area that goes on the 2×4 if you wanted to, otherwise you could just leave that part and have a larger area to nail into. scrap you throw away is a little less, but the biggy is you only have to make one diagonal cut for each support instead of two. I’m a penny pincher and like to save every inch of wood possible, but like I said, making one diagonal cut instead of two, saves you half of time required to cut two, If I didn’t make myself clear, let me know and I can send you a sketch if you would like.
I have already seen many of your videos and am I ever so glad that I made the effort to join. I see that my shop is all wrong and I’m going to be making some changes, thanks to you.
Again, Awesome site. I’m about at the age to retire and If I had found this site earlier, I might would have already been there.
Thanks,
Monroe
I love the pull-out lumber rack for the sheet goods, I think it works better then when you were first in the same shop space.
Nice job, Marc!
Just what I need for my shop.
Hi Mark,
Good solution for a wall rack. I work from a single-car garage. So I don’t have spare wall space. All my machines have to go against the walls! I use a ‘rafter-rack’, just high enough so my up and over door can open and close without fouling!
With your horizontal supports though, I might have notched them into the upright supports for extra strength., Although maybe I am just a ‘Victorian over-engineered’ kind of guy!
10/10
JW
I just built your lumber cart in my garage shop. I used a fixed wheel, not a swivel, but other than that I did it the same way. I worked out great, awesome solution. Thanks!
I have returned and watched this a few times – the simplicity is what works better than anything else – i expect to have completed with just a few alterations. Mainly i am going to set up the front side so I can (with Festool Plunge) do some tracksaw action and breakdown on the actual rack prior to milling to final on TS as needed. Otherwise – a WHOLE lot like this one – thanks Marc.