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	<title>Comments on: 32 &#8211; Pop Goes the Maple</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/pop-goes-the-maple/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/pop-goes-the-maple/</link>
	<description>Education and Entertainment for the modern woodworker.</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Wed, 23 May 2012 11:14:02 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>By: thewoodwhisperer</title>
		<link>http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/pop-goes-the-maple/#comment-189556</link>
		<dc:creator>thewoodwhisperer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 02 May 2012 15:24:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-32-pop-goes-the-maple/#comment-189556</guid>
		<description>dewaxed shellac will bind to just about anything. And since the lacquer is just a clear film coat, it shouldn&#039;t do anything to mask the grain popping.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>dewaxed shellac will bind to just about anything. And since the lacquer is just a clear film coat, it shouldn&#8217;t do anything to mask the grain popping.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: bigred</title>
		<link>http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/pop-goes-the-maple/#comment-189314</link>
		<dc:creator>bigred</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 30 Apr 2012 03:30:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-32-pop-goes-the-maple/#comment-189314</guid>
		<description>I was thinking of using this method to pop the grain on a table top that I am working on and was wanting to top coat the shellac with a pre cad lacquer, but was wondering if the lacquer would work on top of the shellac. I was also unsure if the lacquer would hid the grain that I just tried to pop or if I need to go with an oil bast varnish.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I was thinking of using this method to pop the grain on a table top that I am working on and was wanting to top coat the shellac with a pre cad lacquer, but was wondering if the lacquer would work on top of the shellac. I was also unsure if the lacquer would hid the grain that I just tried to pop or if I need to go with an oil bast varnish.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: thewoodwhisperer</title>
		<link>http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/pop-goes-the-maple/#comment-150673</link>
		<dc:creator>thewoodwhisperer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 03 Mar 2012 03:09:55 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-32-pop-goes-the-maple/#comment-150673</guid>
		<description>Probably doesn&#039;t make a huge difference, but the shellac acts as a bit of a binder. This can help the color bind to the wood better. Again, for this process it probably doesn&#039;t make a huge difference.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Probably doesn&#8217;t make a huge difference, but the shellac acts as a bit of a binder. This can help the color bind to the wood better. Again, for this process it probably doesn&#8217;t make a huge difference.</p>
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	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Shawn</title>
		<link>http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/pop-goes-the-maple/#comment-150640</link>
		<dc:creator>Shawn</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 03 Mar 2012 02:20:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-32-pop-goes-the-maple/#comment-150640</guid>
		<description>Great video, great result. I keep coming back to it when I think about finishing my project.

I didn&#039;t pick up why you use shellac. Is there an advantage over straight denatured alcohol for what you want to achieve?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Great video, great result. I keep coming back to it when I think about finishing my project.</p>
<p>I didn&#8217;t pick up why you use shellac. Is there an advantage over straight denatured alcohol for what you want to achieve?</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: chemmy</title>
		<link>http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/pop-goes-the-maple/#comment-136404</link>
		<dc:creator>chemmy</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jan 2012 00:56:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-32-pop-goes-the-maple/#comment-136404</guid>
		<description>your correct WW, sorry for not mentioning, with gloves and mask these can be used with safety, there are no analines anymore, the nomenclature has just stuck. azo or even the metallic dyes like trans tint can substitute ok? the PD is a hazard and should always be used with caution!!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>your correct WW, sorry for not mentioning, with gloves and mask these can be used with safety, there are no analines anymore, the nomenclature has just stuck. azo or even the metallic dyes like trans tint can substitute ok? the PD is a hazard and should always be used with caution!!</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: thewoodwhisperer</title>
		<link>http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/pop-goes-the-maple/#comment-136393</link>
		<dc:creator>thewoodwhisperer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jan 2012 00:35:31 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-32-pop-goes-the-maple/#comment-136393</guid>
		<description>Hey Chemmy. Since this is just a blog, there&#039;s really no way to post pictures or upload them directly. You can use our forum at http://woodtalkonline.com or any other photo hosting service to upload your pictures and then link to them from here.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hey Chemmy. Since this is just a blog, there&#8217;s really no way to post pictures or upload them directly. You can use our forum at <a href="http://woodtalkonline.com" rel="nofollow">http://woodtalkonline.com</a> or any other photo hosting service to upload your pictures and then link to them from here.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: chemmy</title>
		<link>http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/pop-goes-the-maple/#comment-136391</link>
		<dc:creator>chemmy</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jan 2012 00:24:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-32-pop-goes-the-maple/#comment-136391</guid>
		<description>Hi Dana, this was done with the use of graining rollers back at the turn of last century [early part of the 1900&#039;s] They used distemper colors and acetic acid to make the grain colors and patterns that were on a wide roller, rolled the roller in the pigment and then rolled the non-descript woods. 

It was done mainly because it was cheaper then than the oak was, so it became necessary to compete business wise. The same type of affect is done now on car dashes etc. when a very expensive burl is desired on a car, without the cost. 

i have pics but new here, so i hope WW will tell me how to post them when he reads this ok?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Dana, this was done with the use of graining rollers back at the turn of last century [early part of the 1900's] They used distemper colors and acetic acid to make the grain colors and patterns that were on a wide roller, rolled the roller in the pigment and then rolled the non-descript woods. </p>
<p>It was done mainly because it was cheaper then than the oak was, so it became necessary to compete business wise. The same type of affect is done now on car dashes etc. when a very expensive burl is desired on a car, without the cost. </p>
<p>i have pics but new here, so i hope WW will tell me how to post them when he reads this ok?</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: thewoodwhisperer</title>
		<link>http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/pop-goes-the-maple/#comment-136389</link>
		<dc:creator>thewoodwhisperer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jan 2012 00:17:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-32-pop-goes-the-maple/#comment-136389</guid>
		<description>For anyone looking to try a stain like this, please do your research on the chemicals before you use them. Some are not only toxic but carcinogenic. Many times, a particular color can be reached (or a close variation) with much less dangerous ingredients.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>For anyone looking to try a stain like this, please do your research on the chemicals before you use them. Some are not only toxic but carcinogenic. Many times, a particular color can be reached (or a close variation) with much less dangerous ingredients.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: chemmy</title>
		<link>http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/pop-goes-the-maple/#comment-136383</link>
		<dc:creator>chemmy</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jan 2012 00:00:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-32-pop-goes-the-maple/#comment-136383</guid>
		<description>Used on Mahogany, Birch, Maple, Cypress.
 FORMULA:
1 </description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Used on Mahogany, Birch, Maple, Cypress.<br />
 FORMULA:<br />
1 </p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: chemmy</title>
		<link>http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/pop-goes-the-maple/#comment-136359</link>
		<dc:creator>chemmy</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 23 Jan 2012 23:04:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-32-pop-goes-the-maple/#comment-136359</guid>
		<description>If you feel you must have the magic oil to use, then may i suggest this schedule.

Apply your dye to the wood first, let dry
then apply your oil for best penetration
wipe all the excess off and let dry 24 hours
then apply your shellac at a 1 lb. cut
let dry/sand 320/lightly but smooth
then come back with your poly finish or varnish
skip any tri-mixes of oil/varnish/thinner, and just use a straight poly or varnish thinned just a little if necessary for flow and leveling if brushing. If not you can spray it straight out of the can. or with a spray can.

Make sure your using sealcoat or freshly made dewaxed flakes. sealcoat for poly / dewaxed flakes for oil varnish.

Sincerely,

Chemmy</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>If you feel you must have the magic oil to use, then may i suggest this schedule.</p>
<p>Apply your dye to the wood first, let dry<br />
then apply your oil for best penetration<br />
wipe all the excess off and let dry 24 hours<br />
then apply your shellac at a 1 lb. cut<br />
let dry/sand 320/lightly but smooth<br />
then come back with your poly finish or varnish<br />
skip any tri-mixes of oil/varnish/thinner, and just use a straight poly or varnish thinned just a little if necessary for flow and leveling if brushing. If not you can spray it straight out of the can. or with a spray can.</p>
<p>Make sure your using sealcoat or freshly made dewaxed flakes. sealcoat for poly / dewaxed flakes for oil varnish.</p>
<p>Sincerely,</p>
<p>Chemmy</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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