If you find that your blades and bits just aren’t performing like they used to, you might not need to send them out for a sharpening. They might just be in desperate need of a good cleaning. Over time, pitch and resin builds up on cutting surfaces and causes them to cut less effectively. If the buildup isn’t removed, the increased friction and heat will accelerate the dulling of the edge and eventually the blade or bit will be toast.
Cleaning Agents
The cleaning agent I use is a water-based formula from Rockler called Pitch & Resin Remover. I don’t know exactly what it’s made of but it has a pleasant citrusy smell that is reminiscent of citrus cleaners. I have also heard of folks having good luck with another cleaning product called Simple Green. There are plenty of more caustic cleaners and degreasers out there but I don’t find that the extra cleaning power is necessary nor is it fun to work with. In a pinch, I have used soapy water with good results.
Cleaning
For router bits, I like to use a small plastic cup to hold the concentrated cleaner. I then drop the router bit into the liquid and let it sit for at least five minutes. More stubborn pitch and resin may require a longer soak. After the soak period I use paper towels, acid brushes, and scotch brite pads depending on how much scrubbing power I need. Take care not to work the sharp edges too much, not only for safety but to avoid unnecessarily dulling the bit. For saw blades, I like to do the same soak method only using a wide shallow plastic bowl.
Once clean, I like to rince the blades and bits with water, followed by a thorough wipe-down with a dry paper towel. Since water likes to hang out in the little nooks and crannies, I like to blow dry the blades and bit just to make sure they are bone dry.
Lubrication
The cleaning process no only removes the pitch and resin, but also any beneficial oils that were previously lubricating the tooling surface. In order to help the blades cut cleanly and also prevent rust buildup, we need to lubricate and protect the metal. I like to use Bostik DriCote for this. This aerosol dry lubricant is very easy to apply. After a light coat is applied, I use a paper towel to buff it into the surface.
Simple routine maintenance can save you a lot of time and money. If your blades and bits are clean, they cut more effectively and that translates to better quality results. And without all the pitch and resin on the cutting edge, the edge will stay sharper for longer. That translates to few sharpening sessions. I send my blade and bits to a professional sharpener so anything I can do to lengthen the time between sharpening is welcome!
I’m curious what materials and methods you use to keep your blade and bits nice and clean. Comment below!
I just ran across your website and love it. I was looking at this video on cleaning blades. I’ve done basically the same thing but use an old tooth brush. It seems to work pretty well.
Great video on cleaning. I use Simple green HD. I use a flower pot coaster from Walmart (clear plastic). It’s cheap but hard to pour liquid back into bottle. Your automotive oil change basin is a lot better. Really enjoy your web site. I discovered it by accident and now I’m thinking of joining as a member. thanks!!
I know this is a video primarily about cleaning bits and blades, but you mentioned that you periodically send your blades out for sharpening. The only blade I’ve had to replace was the original that came with my table saw. Having it sharpened wasn’t really even a thought. Instead I took the opportunity to upgrade the blade quality. But, I’m curious what the cost difference is between sending a blade out for sharpening compared to purchasing a new replacement?
Usually costs me about $20 for sharpening. Which is definitely worth it on a $100 blade.
I spray some dry teflon on the bits & blades but also on things like the tablesaw top so the wood glides real nice.
Simple Green makes some great products, but be careful using the regular simple green on your carbide bits and blades. I would suggest to use simple green hd pro heavy duty cleaner (you can find it at home depot). My understanding is that the hd pro does not have the ingredient that may cause carbide breakdown that is in the “regular” simple green. My understanding is that the simple green hd pro is essentially the same product as their industrial cleaning product Extreme Simple Green Aircraft and Precision Cleaner that does not harm the underlying metal.
Hi Marc,
Just found your website and videos. Thanks for all the great info. As a beginner I am learning allot.
I’ve been working on laying some solid pine floors in my dad’s this last few weeks and can’t believe how my blade has gummed up. I’d normally just send it to get sharpened but I tried simple green on the advice of a buddy of mine and the blade’s running like new. €55 saved. Every day’s a school day eh!
Instead of the DryCote, would T9 Boeshield do the trick?
Not really. That’s a very different product. What you want is a dry lubricant.
I have had this kit in my shop for nearly a year, and after your video Marc I decided to break the seal and clean my table saw blade and a could router bits. The citrus cleaner did a fine job. My only complaint was that the blue tub that comes with the kit raises the blade up pretty high in the container, almost enough that the full bottle of cleaner isn’t higher than the blade. Not sure if this was a design feature or design flaw, but I anticipate that after a few cleanings, the one bottle of cleaner won’t reach the blade and I will have to buy another just so the blade is truly soaking.
And no, I do not dilute my cleaner. I do as Marc did…..after using it full strength, I pour it back into the bottle.