This video is an accompaniment to my column in the April 2009 issue of Popular Woodworking Magazine. The article serves as a general review of common woodworking glues and when to use them. The video, however, focuses specifically on urea resin glues. These glues definitely have their advantages: low water content, gap-filling, long open time, and rigid glue lines just to name a few. But keep in mind the one big disadvantage: safety. These glues are pretty nasty and you might be best served considering other options. But with proper precautions (gloves, goggles, and respirator), this glue can be a nice addition to your shop. The two brands I use are DAP Weldwood, and Unibond 800.
Download the PDF of the article.













Sorry to carry on about something so simple but in between glue ups how or where do you store it so it doesn’t dry out? Is it submerged in water or maybe in the glue?
The brush cleaning bowl is filled with water. That’s where it sits between glueups.
Hi Marc, very simple question here but I have always spread glue with my fingers, I see you use those metal brushes and I want to use them to, I know where to get them but I was curious do you throw them away everyday? That seems fairly expensive, or do you clean them and whats your method for getting them clean? thanks
I just clean mine with water. In fact, during glueups I keep a small brush cleaning bowl nearby so I generally use one brush per project.
HI I have a question?
Im trying to make composite wood bats, I first try with gorilla, but it dosent work it cracks.But here in the neiborhood are a guy who fix broken bats, he say he used a red powder resin, but dony want to give the brand can u please advise
Unfortunately no. I don’t know what he means by red powder resin. But you might consider something like epoxy.
Marc, I noticed you have used Titebond II for interior pieces. Is there a difference between Titebond Original and Titebond II other than water-proofing and cost?
Nope, that’s pretty much the only difference. But I usually buy TB II just because I never really know when I will need something with water resistance.
Marc, in the video you state you have both and use both. Given that the DAP product has too high a moisture content for veneer, what DO you use it for?
I used to use the DAP for long glueups. The open time was real nice for that. But I don’t use it much anymore. I rely on epoxy for that anymore.
Hey Marc, whats the difference between Unibond 800 and Woodweld and the West epoxy systems? I know you use the West system a lot so why would you need these other two resin glues?
The main difference between Weldwood and Unibond is the water component. Now you could certainly use epoxy for similar applications, assuming you have the slow cure variety. But the primary reason NOT to use the epoxy is cost. It tends to be significantly more expensive. And when you do veneering, you wind up using a LOT of this stuff.
Good information about the glue. You mention using a respirator, any special filters for it when using the glue or sanding? Second question, what is the shelf life of the two part liquid? Thanks for the info.
Dan
Hey Dan. I just use my standard organic respirator. Generally though, the standar particulate filter should be adequate. Its not so much fumes that we are worried about. Its the fine powder that gets airborne when stirring the mixture and sanding the dried glue.
Shelf life on the resin is highly dependent on temperature. The website says 1 yr at 60F, 6 months at 75F, and 3 months at 90F.
Well, that’s great. I’ll have to wear sweaters, so I can extend the life of the UniBond when I finally buy some.
Very good info Marc, by the way what is the slowest setting PVA glue commonly sold and what is the set time?
DG
I don’t know that its the absolute longest, but its the long I know of’ Titebond Extend. Should give 15-20 minutes open time. Here’s a stat sheet: http://www.titebond.com/Produc.....rodline=12
One of the best things about urea resin glues is that they don’t creep under pressure or heat. So, for example, if you’re laminating up a pair of water-skis, this would be the glue to use.
DD
Hey Marc are there any formaldihyde free resins out there? If not are there other options for veneering?
There are a number of other options for veneers. I always found Joe Woodworker’s summary to be helpful: http://www.joewoodworker.com/veneering/glues.htm
Rookie question here:
Why not just use contact cement?
You can use contact cement and many folks do. Personally, I prefer the rigid glue bond offered by other glues. Contact cement is just a little too rubbery for my taste.