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	<title>The Wood Whisperer &#187; publisher</title>
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	<link>http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com</link>
	<description>Education and Entertainment for the modern woodworker.</description>
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		<title>36 &#8211; Interview with Anatole Burkin</title>
		<link>http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/interview-with-anatole-burkin/</link>
		<comments>http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/interview-with-anatole-burkin/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 03 Jan 2008 20:27:36 +0000</pubDate>
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				<category><![CDATA[On the Road]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[anatole burkin]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fine woodworking]]></category>
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		<description><![CDATA[Interview with Anatole Burkin, Publisher of Fine Woodworking Magazine.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Many folks expressed an interest in seeing the full interviews from our trip to Fine Woodworking.  Only about 5% of the interview actually made it into the show, so there is plenty of good information here.  Anatole Burkin is the Publisher of <a target="blank" href="http://finewoodworking.com">Fine WoodWorking Magazine</a>.  The interview took place in is cozy two-car garage workshop.  Enjoy!</p>
<p>Anatole wanted me to include the following information on shop-made splitters since there has been some interest.</p>
<p><a href='http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/images/insert.jpg' rel='shadowbox[sbpost-451];player=img;' title='insert' align="left"><img src='http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/images/insert.thumbnail.jpg' alt='insert' /></a><br />
Adding a splitter to a new tablesaw throat insert is an excellent safely practice. Once installed, neglecting it requires a conscious effort, so the odds are that it will see everyday, real-life use. I&#8217;ve found, though, that the usually recommended procedure of extending the kerf behind the blade and gluing in a wooden tongue is hard to pull off without introducing minuscule errors. And the slightest error will result in a device that snags the workpiece. This method solves those problems. Raise the sawblade through the new insert. Then place the insert against a fence on a drill-press table. Align things by lowering a drill bit of a diameter that is equal to the blade thickness (usually 1/8 in.) into the kerf. When the bit is centered in the kerf, lock the fence, change to a drill bit 1/32 in. smaller, switch on the drill press and bore a hole near the outfeed end of the kerf. Now push that same drill bit into the hole, shank up, along with a dab of cyanoacrylate glue. The drill bit will now serve as the splitter pin. It will be aligned perfectly with the sawkerf and should have about 1/64 in. of clearance on each side.</p>
<p>Michael Standish, Roxbury, Mass.</p>
<p>Fine Woodworking Magazine, October 2001 No. 151</p>
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