When I cut dados in large boards or plywood, the pieces inevitably lift up to some extent. The scary thing is you might not even realize it’s happening. But when you go to assemble the case, you can’t figure out why the sides are bowing out! Chances are, your dados and grooves were not cut at a consistent depth. Enter the router plane! I make a habit of setting my router plane and quickly going over each and every dado in my projects. You’d be surprised at how much material this bad boy catches, and the subsequent headaches it can prevent. If you don’t already have one, you should definitely pick one up! They’re so choice!

This jig was developed and demonstrated in the current Guild Build as part of the Wall-Hanging Cabinet series (it was originally inspired by this Wood Magazine Jig). This video is a little sample of what Guild members are enjoying every week during the build season. If you are interested in joining the Guild, learn more here.

This jig can be made to any size for any bit/guide bushing combination. Just remember that once you use a particular bit/bushing combo with the jig, you are stuck with it. Using a different combination will defeat the purpose of the jig. I used a 5/8″ guide bushing and a 1/2″ router bit.

Don’t forget to download the PDF and SketchUp drawing for the Exact Width Dado Jig!

Jig Modifications

I requested ideas modifications to the jig, and a couple Guild members were quick to off suggestions. If you have a modification, upload it to our SketchUp Library and share the link in the comments below.
Denny’s Suggestion
Robert’s Suggestion (SketchUp File)

Resources

JIG IT(R) Hardware Kit This is a nice multi-pack of jig-building parts. Assorted T-bolts, knobs, and inserts for customizing your own jigs and fixtures for your shop. Very handy to have around. JIG IT(R) Hardware Kit

This Advent calendar is relatively basic in design, but has 25 little cubbies with enough room for a special treat or a secret message. In the first part of the two-part series, I start working on the grid structure and the hanging of the doors. The grid structure is creating using a shop-made jig that is very similar to a box-joint jig.

And if you’ve been following the Shop Journal on the blog, you’ll know how much of a pain the door hanging has been (see links below). But I finally came up with a good solution that I think you are going to like. It involves the use of Blind Nails from FastCap.

Want to build along with me? Download the plans and start making some sawdust:
Advent Calendar SketchUp Plan
Advent Calendar PDF Plan

Associated Shop Journal Posts:
Jig For the Advent Calendar
Tiny Door Hinges
More Tiny Door Hinges
Distressed Painted Finish

Other parts in this series:
Advent Calendar Part 2
Advent Calendar Part 3

My question has to do with a bookcase I am building. I consider myself a novice woodworker. I certainly learn from my mistakes and this may be another one. I am building this bookcase from solid red oak. It has three fixed shelves that I have glued into dadoes. I am wondering about finishing the front edges to cover the dadoes. I have curved the top of each side, so I cant attach anything with any thickness. I cut some thin strips, but I am afraid they won’t be flexible enough to bend over the curve at the top. Any thoughts? Can I leave the edges unfinished? I am thinking I should cover those dadoes.

Hey Mark. Bottom line is you don’t have to cover the dados if you don’t want to. Since its solid wood, the edges probably look fine and I doubt anyone will ever notice the joinery. But if it bothers you, there are solutions out there. You can buy rolls of veneer tape in many species, including red oak. This thin veneer can take just about any curve you can dish out. Many even contain a heat activated glue so all you have to do is put it on the edge, run an iron over it, and use a roller to push it into the grain. Then trim the excess and you’re good to go. But that technique is usually reserved for plywood, since we don’t want to see the ugly edges. You can see how I apply this type of edge-banding here: Video – On the Edge. But boy oh boy it really pains me to think of you covering solid wood edges with veneer edge-banding.

So here’s one other suggestion. You might think this idea is crap so feel free to discard it, but this is something you should try to do whenever you confront a problem. Always try to think of a way to add something to your design, rather than just fix the error. For instance, what if you ran a decorative trim piece of walnut across each fixed shelf. It could look like an intentional design choice instead of something that disguises a joint. You could cut the strip with a bevel on it or even some kind of profile to make it really pop. The picture on the left gives you an idea of what this might look like. Obviously this may or may not work depending on the look you are going for, but its one possible solution.

Now we should probably also discuss how to prevent this in the future. What could have been done to prevent the exposed dado joint? The first thing that comes to mind for me is a stopped dado. So instead of running that dado all the way through to the end of the case side, you can stop it about an inch back. And your shelf simply receives a little notch at the front corner. This would give you the strength of the dado with the appearance of a simple butt joint at the front of the case.

***So how would you guys deal with a problem like this? And what ideas do you have for prevention?

This series is now available on DVD! Order your copy today!

When I rout a dado or rout a dovetail socket, I get tearout at the beginning and end of the cut. What options other than kniving the outline of the dado or socket?

And here was my reply:

“Hey Ralph. By far, the easiest thing to do is take a couple pieces of scrap that are the same thickness as your workpiece, and butt them up against the ends. Its a good idea to clamp them into place. The scrap pieces will essentially sandwich the workpiece. So when you start and finish the cut, the fibers of the workpiece will be completely supported and there should be little to no tearout. Hope that helps.”

Build Along!

If you plan on building this project, this exploded diagram will give you the measurements you need to get the job done. A Sketchup file of this project is also available, thanks to Chris Williams.

Want This Project on DVD?

This series is now available on DVD. Purchase your copy today!

Products Featured in the Show:

Concealed Hinge JIG IT(R) System Drill concealed hinge cup holes with ease and accuracy. Easily locate, center and drill cup holes on cabinet doors for fully concealed hinges. Concealed Hinge JIG IT(R) System

Clamp-It(R) Assembly Square Align it, clamp it, and fasten it to get perfect 90 degree angles every time! Here’s a solution that’s so simple, you’ll wonder why it took so long to develop! Clamp-It(R) Assembly Square

Rockler/Insty-Drive Self-Centering Bits Self-centering bits feature a hex collar that allows for use with the Rockler/Insty-Drive exclusive Insty-Driver. You?ll get perfectly centered pilot holes for accurate hinge and hardware installation.. Rockler/Insty-Drive Self-Centering Bits