More than any tool in the wood shop, the tablesaw generates the most heated discussions surrounding safety. Part of that could certainly be attributed to the whole SawStop/legislation situation. But one thing we all must admit is that the tablesaw is potentially one of the most dangerous tools in the shop. Anyone who has experienced a kickback knows that when things go wrong at the tablesaw, they go wrong in a very big way! So it’s very important to use the proper gear like push sticks, featherboards, splitters/riving knives, and blade guards.
I own several safety devices for my tablesaw and I use them in various combinations depending on the task at hand. Nearly every cut is done using the riving knife. I try to use my blade guard as much as possible too but I must admit to forgetting on occasion. And I very rarely send a piece through the saw with my bare hands. Push sticks help to keep my hands at least 8-12″ away from the blade at all times.
This poll was created by Tom Iovino of TomsWorkbench.com.
My saw is so old it doesn’t have any Safety equipment Doesn’t even have enough room on the Throat plate for one of those micro jig splitters
Um…… I don’t exactly know what ANY of these things are… What IS kickback, anyway? If you put it in backwards and try to do a climbing cut? THAT will launch things pretty well.
Blade guard, like on a Miter Saw, that folds up?
Hey all, first time visitor to the site and wanted to say thanks for all the good information. And I have a question as well – I just purchased my first table saw, it’s got some age on it, a 1 HP Craftsman 10-inch with the Flex drive (model number 113.241691). From what I can see, these are pretty common. The seller no longer had the blade guard (or the miter gauge, for that matter). Before I use the saw, I’d like to add the blade guard – which I’m finding easily on the aftermarket – but also a riving knife. I’m wondering about compatibility – will most/all riving knives fit this model, or do I need to buy something more specifically designed for the Craftsman saw? There is a Sears nearby (and of course online), will the riving knife they sell now fit my older saw? Any tips on what/where to get a riving knife for my saw appreciated, thanks!
I try to be as safe as I can when working on the tablsaw. I don’t think I would ever not use a riving knife or pushsticks unless working with really large boards. A guard is something which I can see the value but for me, and this is just my opinion can often not be practical, perhaps if I owned a really nice expensive one it would be better but most of the time I go without.
My one concern it the day I become complacent at the tablesaw as I know that is when I will go wrong, respect your tool and it will respect you and hopefully your fingers! :P
I normally use all my equipment. I just ordered the sharkguard for an upgraded splitter. I would like the wheel type hold downs and some magnetic featherboards in the future but fine with the one that slides in the miter slot.
While I fully support the discussion here, I dare to partially disagree with the assessment the table saw is the most dangerous tool in the shop. It is (at least here in Europe) THE SHAPER. Whereas the table saw will cut away limbs and may bring you to hospital after a kickback, the Shaper does all that plus will send you right into the grave if you stand at the wrong place at the wrong time (kickback from wrong RPM, one standing aside of the machine – or use of cutters which are not certified for manual feed. Not the most obvious mistakes for beginners…).
The table saw got a lot less accidents here when sliding tables and riving knives started to become a commodity. Ffrom my experience, a sliding table is a really great accessory I can only recommend – not only from a technical but also a safety perspective.
Using all of them got a whole lot easier with my new saw. The riving knife makes the difference. And the blade guard itself is far far better than before. There’s a lot less reason to take it off now. All in all, the safety gear got some thoughtful improvement. Finally.
I voted “I take all that useless stuff off my saw” because the safety devices that came with the saw were useless.(very 0ld Delta Contractors saw).
I have added :
. Zero clearance inserts for all blades
. MJ Splitter (not the new steel one)
. 52″ Biesemeyer Table Saw Fence with lots of accessories.
. Lots of shop made push blocks (not sticks), and I use them.
. Feather boards.
I have never seen a blade guard that I would use – ever.
Frank
I have an older Unisaw and dont use anything at this point…..I aligned the blade to the table with a dial indicator. I also trued up the arbor so the runout is less than .001″..I use a high quality blade that is very sharp. I also make sure that before I make a rip cut that the edge that goes against the fence is true…if it’s not, I joint it…anything that could cause the board to bind against the blade can cause kickback. I make sure that my cuts are well supported and pratice exactly what I am going to do before making the cut… If the cut is better off being made on a bandsaw…such as cutting circles…I use that instead…. A tablesaw is an extremely dangerous tool if you do not know what you are doing with it….especially the bigger 220V saws. I’m thinking of retrofitting my Unisaw with a riving knife…there is a company that now makes a kit for it….
I am also a happy Sawstop owner. It’s that extra level of safety just in case you make a mistake. It might be more expensive, but it’s cheaper than having fingers reattached (or just losing them).
I have a way older Craftsman saw and as is normal the blade guard got removed the first day and has never been on the saw since. Those early blade guards were poorly designed and have to be removed for anything that is not a through cut. They are ridiculously difficult to remove and replace. I have however put on a splitter and always use a push stick. For rip cuts I put on feather boards as well.
I have a sawstop. I sold an old craftsman for what I had paid for it used over 25 years ago. It had zero safety. I did have a kick back or two. One even broke the arbor on the saw. I looked at prices and decided it was more about the safety than the cost. I am happy with the safety factors. I have seen a few fingers go missing and I don’t want mine to be in the bunch. And remember safety glasses are also a must with a saw.
I’ve got a Sawstop, and unless I’m dadoing or cutting coves, the riving knife is always installed. The machine is also equipped with an overarm guard.
I’ve been using an Excalibur overarm guard for many years. It works so well, I kept it and installed it on the SawStop when I sold my General 650. There’s no reason to not use it whenever possible. The arm also makes a handy place to store the ear muffs and safety glasses when not in use. It’s easier to put them on then to move them out of the way. ;^)
Obviously, the overarm is in the way for cutting vertical tenons on most parts. In these cases, it quickly and easily swings aside. In rare circumstances where the vertical portion of the arm interferes with long stock, the entire arm can be removed without tools and laid aside in seconds.
I’m sort of, but trying not to because it’ll just drive me crazy, kicking myself for not buying the Sawstop contractor saw before I bought my Powermatic. But anyway, do you know if they make those overarm kits for contractor saws?
Thanks Marc
That is my thought as well. The other great feature is the scoring blade. This saw has a lot of features for the money. When it comes to safety it is best to pace yourself and not rush the project. Take the time to double check your set-up before making the cut. Ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
I live in Peoria near Lake Pleasant. I am not sure how close I am to you but would like to meet you and maybe spend a day with your for some advanced wood working. Please let me know how I would go about that. You should have my e-mail so we can keep from loading up this forum.
Hello Marc
First off I would like to say that I really enjoy your website. You are truly gifted woodworker as well as great inspiration to fellow woodworkers. I enjoy your videos as they are very informative with a little entertainment.
I recently started back into woodworking. I built a L-shaped desk and hutch for our son, and I must say I am hooked again. I have a 10 year old Craftsman contractor saw and I had added the Incra LS fence system to the saw. The accuracy is very good but I did loose my blade guard which has the splitter and anti kickback paws. I have experienced kickback on the saw many years ago and it wakes you up as to how dangerous a table saw can be. I will be able to reinstall my blade guard once I cut the rear rail in half and make a gap for the blade guard to fit.
My question for you: What would your opinion be regarding an European style sliding table saw?
I have researched this type of saw and it seams to me that it could be very safe compared to conventional table saw with cross cutting or ripping large material. Your hands would not be close to the blade and your work piece is securely clamped to the sliding table. I plan on upgrading my saw and I am not sure which to purchase; the Grizzly G0623X sliding table saw or the Saw Stop. Both are around the same cost. What are our thoughts. I would like to hear from anyone that owns a sliding saw and what their experience has been.
Thanks GREAT TOPIC!!!
Hey David. Thanks for the kind words my friend. I think the sliders are fantastic saws. They tend to be very large and quite a bit more expensive. But if the budget and the space is there, I really think it is a great way to go. It has crossed my mind more than once that I should have one of those units.
I own a Sawstop and always use the riving knife…. Feather boards and push sticks are a must.. I hear people say you will get complacent with a Sawstop….. NOT TRUE!!! I think about every cut on my tablesaw. Saftey in the shop is very important… Thanks for the poll!!!
I own a saw that only has a splitter, but I took it off recently to use a dado stack and haven’t changed the blades back yet. When the normal blade is on I have the splitter with the attached blade guards. It wasn’t until after I bought the saw that I realized that it didn’t have a riving knife. I’m an idiot. I might have something made that is better than the stock splitter/guard attachment, because it’s clumsy to take off and replace properly, and that is not a good thing for safety. None of the categories in the poll question really apply. I really want to use all the safety stuff, but I’m a little lost as to what products will work with my saw. It’s a Powermatic 64A Contractor Saw.
I got back into woodworking a little over a year ago. I was looking around at table saws and at the time thought that I was probably not going to use it very much. So rather than buy a new one, I decided to save some cash and bought a used 10″ Tradesman table saw. After I got it home, I realized that the seller never gave me the blade guard assembly. I meant to call the guy to see if I could get the guard, but never got around to it and then lost his number.
So, mental note to self. Excercise extreme caution when using said table saw. Well, that worked fine for a couple of weeks. I made sure to use push-sticks most of the time to keep my fingers away from the blade (no SawStop on this old table saw).
So, Woodworker Safety week rolls around last year and I am working on a new computer case. I need to cut some thin strips of wood trim for the new case and I am doing them on the table saw of course. They are very thin pieces and I was on the final cut when the board binds and kicks back and I felt it. The blade bit me (not a happy feeling, I have to say). Fortunately, the piece of wood jammed the blade and I must say, I pulled my hand back faster than Billy the Kid ever drew his pistol.
At this point, I realized I had just become a table saw statistic. I looked at my finger and saw about a 1/8 inch track down the middle of my left index finger about 3/4 of an inch long. Definitely not good. But it have been a lot worse.
I wrapped the finger up in a couple of shop paper-towels, showered and changed and drove to the hospital. About 5 hours later, they finally let me out after x-rays (as the x-ray tech informed me the saw blade had pulverized the little bone in the tip of my finger) and about 6 stitches to try and hold it together so it could heal. They also wrapped it up in about a pound of guaze so it would be balloon sized and easier to bash into everything.
Of course, the next day I had to go to work and retell the story several times to co-workers and typing on my computer was rather problematic as I kept trying to use the finger to type with.
That was a year ago, and while it is all healed up now. I do have a little nerve damage on the finger tip as well as a nasty scar, but I am glad I still have the finger. Fortunately none of my co-workers knew that I did this on woodworker’s safety week or I would have never lived it down.
I have a delta unisaw and I was wondering if anyone had experience with an aftermarket riving knife attachment. I can find very little reference to any on the interwebs. Is is worth it?
How about some current baby pictures. How long before the name is changed to
thewoodshisperer & son?
Well who won the festool package??????!!!!!’mm
no one yet. Waiting for the smoke to clear from the attack before announcing anything.
I have the sawstop and it has already saved my fingers once. I was using a push stick with my right hand but used my left hand instead of a feather board. I didn’t even know I was pushing my fingers into the moving blade until the brake tripped and stopped the blade. It broke the end of my finger nail did a small amount of damage to the end of my finger. I went to the ER but they said there was not enough damage for any stitches. My wife nagged me into buying the saw and now am glad she did. I am a believer now. At the time of purchase I thought it was over priced but now I would pay even more for it.
Like many, I have a cast iron top and I use one of the magnetic feather boards. Because it is so easy to use, I find myself always using it every time I can. I love feather boards because you can put pressure against the wood in an area that your hand should stay clear from.
I think quick and easy is a key point to any of the safety aids. If you spend a little time between projects to organize your aids and make them easier to employ, you are more likely to build it into your routine for operations. I like to think about this stuff and make improvements during times of the year that I don’t have a project “on the bench” but want to spend a couple of hours in the shop.
Great topic.
Riving Knife for me.
I saw that video of the guy who was demonstrating a table saw without a splitter or riving knife, I think he was demonstrating kickback, and he nearly lost his fingers in the process. He was an experienced wood worker and was using push paddles on some soft material I think it was polystyrene or some sort of plastic. The piece ended up turning around on the rise side of the blade and the turning moment on his push paddles forced his hands into the path of the blade. It happened so quick he couldn’t have done anything about it!
On the slow motion replay you could see he was hairs away from losing his fingers. He was so darn lucky.
So after seeing that the riving knife has gone back onto the TC. The crown guard (a guard that is fixed to the riving knife and raises/falls with the blade height) occassionally goes back on but I must say it does get in the way.
I always use a push stick (Marcs version in the store), even on wide boards. I just don’t want to lose any bits of me!
I mostly use the splitter and guard that came with the saw. If it’s a short or thin rip, then I get the MJ Gripper. If I can’t cross cut on the mitre saw, then the sled comes out.
I’ve been hit by kick back a few times and each time I can point to the bozo in the mirror as to why it happened.
The table saw that I have was one that I have inherited, there was no riving knive or splitter and no guard to speak of. I have picked some of the Micro jig splitters and use them on almost every cut. I am still trying to find a guard and integrated dust collection would be great. I still need to build a crosscut sled, but I use anti kickback rollers whenever they will fit, as well as feather boards and the micro jig gripper.
Guard: Never
Riving knife: Don’t have one. The guard has a splitter, but… see above.
Pushblock: Always for anything where my digits are within 6″
antikickback rollers: when they’ll fit
Crosscut sled: Safer than a miter gauge, but not always applicable
Chainmail glove: Only with the sharks…
I use most everything my saw came with, but unfortunately it’s a 60′s Craftsman that doesn’t actually have ANY safety equipment %-)
I had to go with something else. I bought my saw used, and it was missing all the safety gear on it. I did have the MJ Splitter on it with the old fence, which was more out of alignment then I thought it was. I replaced the fence which is always dead-on, and I figured out the splitter was not straight and ends up pinching the wood between it and the fence. So I need to replace the ZCI again, and go through the install process once more.
I’m trying to find a good way to attach things like feather boards… to my saw’s fence, but its aluminum so using a magnet won’t work and clamps get in the way. Do you have any suggestions?
one thing you might consider is building yourself a nice shop-made auxiliary fence. You can build in a t-track for all sorts of shop made and commercial attachments. I’ve been meaning to do this for years but haven’t gotten around to it yet.
i have a P30 panel saw.
riving knife- always
guard – always. either fixed to riving knife or overhead if possible unless there is a need to remove it
sliding table with fixed mitre gauge when needed although most cross cuts are on the sliding cross cut saw. the sliding table is great for cutting large un planed boards when you clamp them to the table.also good for fixing jigs to which then move with the slider as opposed to being pushed on the table.
the only real issue is the inability for a zero clearance solution because of the sliding table.
cc
Hopefully this evening or tomorrow, I’ll do a short video on my TS set up. I have an auxiliary fence, after market splitter, and overarm blade guard. Renzo wants to see the overarm blade guard “in action”, so I might as well try a short video. NOTHING cool like you do. I don’t have the patience or desire to actually get too far into video.
@ the author; I might be up for trying to make my own fence. Before I started doing my own research for such a project, do you have any?
Jon, mine bolts onto my Biesemeyer fence and has T track in the top and side.
Just a couple things I found from a quick web search:
http://woosterwoodworker.blogs.....e-and.html
http://www.shopnotes.com/issues/96/