Comments on: Cutting Board Warping

By: Kris Canty

Kris Canty — Mon, 30 Jan 2012 07:44:36 +0000

Hi, just wanted to say I enjoyed the video as well as this (troubleshooting I suppose you could call it) post? I’ve been thinking about making myself some end-grain boards of my own for some time but figured it would be a lot more work than this.

Also in response to Anne up above the damp cloth below the board actually serves a different purpose (most of the time, though I suppose in this case it’s a dual purpose) and is something we were taught in culinary school to always do.

Basically the cloth acts the same as it would if you had rubber feet beneath the board and prevents it from slipping around. Especially in commercial kitchens with all stainless steel counter-tops it’s a vital safety step. Just thought I’d give a little culinary input on it. (Plus it allows you to use the board on either side since you aren’t fiddling with rubber feet)

As far as restaurant boards go we’re required to use plastic here. Though in bakeries you can use approved wood work-boards/counter-tops…you have to get them approved though.

By: Rod DeBord

Rod DeBord — Sat, 22 Oct 2011 17:40:39 +0000

Great plan for the end grain cutting board. I have now made several of these and really love them. Great and appreciated gifts.

I, too, had some problems with warping, especially on purpleheart boards. I believe now that much of this was caused by heat buildup from the drum sanding exercise anf my admittedly aggressive tendancy. When I carefully take my time and let the sander work as it should…little problem….but, if I try to speed through or get to agressive with the bite….lots of heat buildup in the board!

Thanks for the plan!

By: Cliff Bramlett

Cliff Bramlett — Mon, 09 Aug 2010 05:30:44 +0000

Excellent! Heh, and now this has been moved to the top of my honey-do list. It’s nice to see all these comments to get a head start on potential problems. Marc, thanks for the how-to and everyone else, thanks for the tips!

By: fixer

fixer — Sun, 22 Feb 2009 21:19:48 +0000

Love your videos, I myself have made a few boards, I do not make them for one side use, if one starts to dish I put that side down. I find that if I run the slices after cuting the glued boards through the drum sander on each glued side I can get a much flatter and better jointed board after glueing up the final board, I also try not to make any joints less then a half inch minimum brick pattern for a stronger board :>)

By: thewoodwhisperer

thewoodwhisperer — Wed, 17 Dec 2008 21:25:30 +0000

You got it Hope. Just don’t use glue or anything on the plugs because you’ll need to get back in there some day.

By: Hope

Hope — Wed, 17 Dec 2008 20:10:43 +0000

There are some wood plugs that cover the rods. If I can remove them would I just need to tighten the nuts and put the plugs back in?

By: thewoodwhisperer

thewoodwhisperer — Wed, 17 Dec 2008 18:49:56 +0000

Hello Hope. Unfortunately, without seeing what you are working with, its hard to tell you how to tighten the rods. My guess is there must be some hex head or nut of some kind that you can turn. But again, without seeing it its hard to tell for sure.

By: Hope

Hope — Wed, 17 Dec 2008 17:49:00 +0000

I recently purchased an antique butcher block which needs some restoration. The first thing I need to do is tighten the metal rods. Can you tell me how to do this?

By: thewoodwhisperer

thewoodwhisperer — Tue, 18 Nov 2008 22:47:17 +0000

Hi beth. It can definitely be done. But your instincts are dead on. The issue is potential movement. To stack the cards in your favor, you may want to try using rift-sawn or quartersaw boards, as they tend to be more stable.

Good luck.

By: Beth

Beth — Tue, 18 Nov 2008 20:20:19 +0000

I want to make a cutting board out of one solid piece of wood. Most of the patterns I have looked at are at least 3 pieces glued together. Is it impossible to do this type of cutting board. I realize that warping is the issue….just wondering if it can be done.

Thanks,
Beth